To the moon and Bach

The cobblestoned streets were quiet, save for the occasional staccato clop of leather shoes or the mild patter of sneakers. Beautiful buildings on either side, in an array of European architectural styles and painted pale yellow, pink, white or grey, stood silent. It was late April but a weak sun struggled to make its presence felt in Leipzig’s old town.

Suddenly, the silence gave way to melodious strains. They grew louder with every step I took towards the centre of the town. As I rounded a corner into Market Square, I found the source — two young men plucking away at a cello and a violin. I stood and listened as the duo segued from one composition to another.

As they wound down, a four-piece band tuned in just down the street opposite Madler Passage. And so it went on. Leipzig lived up to its formidable reputation as a city of music. But it didn’t start out that way. My guide Monika explained that Leipzig’s position between two major trading routes made it a rich trading city from the days of the Roman Empire. Wealth brought patronage and it became a centre for learning and art, especially music. So much so that in the mid-18th century, 16 merchants initiated the Gewandhaus, a glorious music hall considered among the best in Europe. It dominated the Augustusplatz at the edge of the old town and vied for attention with the fabulous Leipziger Opera opposite it.

But a different sound caught my attention. The deep gongs from a church marked the hour and I followed them to reach the imposing Thomaskirche (St Thomas Church) adjacent to the Market Square. Built in Gothic style, it had an impressive belfry. Inside, it had a vaulted ceiling, beautiful statues, two stunning organs and four bells, with the largest weighing an incredible 5,200 kg and rung only on special occasions. But more interesting was the fact that Johann Sebastian Bach was kapellmeister (choirmaster) of this church for more than 25 years. Recognising this, at one end of the church was a large plaque with his name engraved to mark his final resting place. But outside was a much more endearing tribute: a massive statue of Bach on a pedestal.

Bach, however, was just one of the big Leipzig names. Many of Europe’s brightest composers and conductors — Mendelssohn, Beethoven, Wagner sto name a few — had been associated with this city in the state of Saxony in Germany. Some sources say Leipzig has hosted more than 500 of them over the years. It’s an attribute that Leipzig takes seriously enough to design the Leipziger Notenspur or Leipzig Music Trail, a five-kilometre route traversing 23 sites. I had just started on it and was already captivated.

Just opposite the church was the Bach Museum, where I wandered among the displays showcasing his life and work, manuscripts, compositions in the original, instruments and other exhibits. The most fascinating was a room with plush sofas where you can use headphones to listen to Bach’s compositions

Equally captivating was the Mendelssohn House, dedicated to Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy. This 19th-century composer and conductor is credited with reviving the music of Bach. At a concert in Berlin on March 11, 1829, Mendelssohn, only 20 years old then, performed Bach’s ‘St Matthew Passion’ before a packed auditorium. The King of Prussia, philosopher Friedrich Hegel and violinist Nicolo Paganini were among the audience that witnessed what is termed the ‘Bach revival’. Mendelssohn went on to helm the Gewandhaus Orchestra, steering it from success to success. It seemed natural that a museum dedicated to him should be as riveting as his music. The clear winner was the interactive room with musical pillars. Each pillar denoted an instrument used in orchestras, and I was free to create music by running my fingers across them.

By now it was late afternoon and I hurried back to St Thomas Church. I joined a serpentine queue and paid €2 for a seat in a pew. The church filled up quickly for a performance of the Thomas Boys’ Choir accompanied by the Gewandhaus Orchestra. For nearly an hour-and-a-half, the choir and the orchestra enthralled with compositions by Bach and others. I stepped out with the deep tones of the organ ringing in my ears.

As I headed back to my hotel at the edge of the old town, I stumbled upon a statue set against a lovely lawn with flowers. I went closer and realised it was Richard Wagner, another of Leipzig’s illustrious sons. As if on cue, a single unseen violin began playing one of his compositions. It seemed a fitting end to a day in the city of music.

Travel log

Getting there

Though Leipzig has an airport, it is easier to connect via ICE trains from Berlin (1 hour 20 minutes) or Frankfurt (3 hours) which have better connections from India.

Stay

It is easy to find options for about €75, especially a little outside the old town, but The Westin Leipzig (www.westin-leipzig.de/en/; from €130 onwards) is beautifully designed on the inside and is just a few minutes away from the old town and the railway station.

Getting around

The old town is small and easy to get around on foot. Buy a Leipzig card (€11.50 for a day, €22.50 for three days) to use on the public transport network; it also gives discounts on museum tickets, walking tours, tram and boat trips, and restaurants.

Sights

- Bach Museum (www.bachmuseumleipzig.de/en/bach-museum; 10 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays; €8).

- Mendelssohn House (www.mendelssohn-stiftung.de/r-home-en.html; 10 am to 6 pm; €7.50).

Tip

Visit the Thomas Church around noon on Friday/Saturday when the Gewandhaus Orchestra holds practice sessions.

Anita Rao Kashi is a freelance travel writer based in Bengaluru

COMMENT NOW