Winter sun shines bright on the picturesque Vallakkadavu-Varkala coastal road as I ride past several colourful houses standing in tree-filled compounds. Traversing the scenic Muthala Pozhi Bridge across the backwaters, which offer a stunning view of Muthala Pozhi harbour on one side and Thazhampalli beach on the other, I enter Chirayinkeezhu Taluk. Crossing a couple of bridges, one across the famous Vamanapuram River, I reach Chirayinkeezhu village.
Thazhampalli Beach and sandbar
This quaint village, lying some 35 km north of the city, with it’s green rivers and backwaters, has had such an impact on the Malayalam cinema that it’s a little hard to ignore it. It is the birthplace of Abdul Khader, universally known by his screen name ‘Prem Nazir’, the biggest movie star Kerala has ever seen and Gopinathan Velayudhan Nair a.k.a Bharath Gopi, one of the most gifted actors to have born in this part of the world. And the list just doesn’t end there. Chirayinkeezhu is also home to another acting stalwart, G.K. Pillai. He along with Jose Prakash formed the great baddie duo of Malayalam cinema during 1960s and 70s. At 92, he is still active in the industry.
Sarkara Devi temple, Chirayinkeezh
But this trip is for the one and only Prem Nazir. So asking my way around, I reach the famous Sarkara Temple. The centuries-old temple dedicated to the Mother Goddess is considered to be one of the most important pilgrimage centres of South India. It is also the secular heart of Chirayinkeezhu village, bringing together locals of all faiths during festive occasions, and Prem Nazir has had a big hand in maintaining this religious harmony. Decades ago Nazir had offered an elephant as a tribute to Sarkara Devi, the main deity. It is something that people still remember fondly and a gesture that tells you why though there are a slew of personalities hailing from Chirayinkeezhu, in the minds of the locals Prem Nazir stands tall.
Marumakal (1951) was his first film and from then on he starred in more than 700 films, a Guiness world record. He is often considered as the first superstar of Malayalam cinema.
But for people of Chirayinkeezhu he is more than just the ‘evergreen’ actor that he was. For them he is someone who has contributed selflessly to the betterment of their village. A great humanitarian, the local hospital and the Koonthalloor School, which he helped renovate, stands as a testimony to his benevolence and love for Chirayinkeezhu. Almost all the folks, the owner of the bakery I had a snack from, the cashier at a restaurant I had my lunch at, fondly recalls the iconic star with much love and respect. Yet all of them end their account on a regretful note. There isn’t a single memorial in his name in his own village.
“He grew up here. That was his school,” Keshavan, one of the locals I met near the temple, points to Sri Chitravilasom school near the temple. “No one has contributed more to the development of this place than him. But the people and authorities have done nothing for him,” Keshavan rues. The foundation for a small memorial was laid sometime ago. But it didn’t progress beyond that on account of land ownership issues.
Prem Nazir’s old bungalow
My last stop before leaving Chirayinkeezhu is one of the last remaining souvenirs with Prem Nazir’s name on it.
Front door of Prem Nazir’s old bungalow
Although Keshavan had described the route as clearly as he could, I still lost my way more than once before reaching my destination - an old two-storied yellow bungalow on the road to Koonthalloor, with the name Prem Nazir on the porch.
No one lives here today, only memories.
