The Arabian Sea has been a marine trade route since time immemorial but for veteran designer Monisha Jaising – who has now completed 27 long fruitful years in the Indian fashion industry – the sea acted as the stunning backdrop when she presented her party wear collection as an opening show of Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2017 recently.
Though the fashion week commences from February 1, this show was given an advance date and a special royal treatment as it was showcased on board a cruise. The reason behind the decision to make the off site show an experiential presentation was an acknowledgement for Monisha, who came into limelight after she cut kurtas and gave us kurtis. For this collection, she gave kurtis a miss as it did not work with the theme of exhibition.
The opening show had all the indications of being an extraordinary one as the elegance of the sea was reflected on the clothes.
“The Arabian sea has been an inspiration for this collection. Outfits reflected the changing colour from morning to night, shine of the sea and the feel. Elements of the sea like shells attached on outfits were not there but the look of the party dresses was the sea. There were other inspirations like sunset and of course the cruise. So all these were reflected on the clothes in an implicit manner,” says Monisha.
Creating a look of the Arabian sea was a beautiful concept. Recreating the garments in terms of texture, design and embroidery required special treatment.
“Basically I thought what one would wear if one was invited for a party at the cruise. The invitation could be to attend a beach party, red carpet event or a holiday one’s spouse has planned. Keeping these aspects in mind, I have designed this collection. I have brought in a dreamy elegance to the spring summer style with contemporary and stately silhouettes, glorious array of patterns, fully embellished party dresses and effortless approach of cocktail sarees. It is about reinventing classic silhouettes,” says Monisha.
The evening required dramatic choreography.
“I wanted to create a sense of drama at the ultra-glam fashion event. Therefore, it was all about emphasising sharp angles and playing with varying tones. The extravagant evening wear complemented billowing skirts with tight bodices, infused with opulent fabrics, heavy bonded satin, wool crepe, Italian organza, chikankari and metal encrusted chain mail.”
Making the outfits free spirited was an essential prerequisite.
“This collection is a tribute to the modern woman, unafraid to spread her wings and conquer big city nights in haute couture. It is for the unapologetic, fearless woman who commands her clothes.”
Though the execution has taken place this year, the seeds were sown in 2015 when Monisha had showcased a bridal collection.
“This is not a new idea; it germinated in my mind while presenting my show at India Couture Week in Delhi in 2015. I had created a set of yacht decks for the show. That show was very much appreciated. Since I had expertise of putting together the sailing bride I was approached to do a show in a cruise for the sailing party girl for Lakme India Week.”
While in 2015 it was all about couture, in 2017 it is pret. “In both events there was same sensibility and philosophy but treatment was different. That was bridal collection, this was for the party girl. So here I have a girl who wants to chill out and what comes to one’s mind is lot of funky dresses.”
