Her craftsmanship on skirts, gowns and jackets has always been like a work of art. And now designer Pallavi Mohan, who has been using brush to express her vision on canvas since childhood, has expressed her imagination on fabric as her range of newly created outfits are being exhibited at the ongoing India Art Fair at the NSIC Grounds in Okhla.
For Pallavi, it was a dream to showcase her creativity in an art exposition where the discerning can see similarities and dissimilarities between her exquisite floral patterns, contours of geometric designs and imaginative use of colours with artistic impressions.
Pallavi Mohan
Each outfit is shimmering with detailed ornamental needlework . Floral motifs, a regular feature in her collections, have been presented in a new avatar. “Art aficionados have started making polite inquiries and are comparing my creativity on fabric and artistic impressions on the canvas. For me design cannot be seen in isolation. ”
The news of her getting roped in as the only fashion designer was a pleasant surprise. “It felt really good. For me, painting is a passion; there is nothing commercial about it. It comes from within me. Since the workmanship on outfits also appears like a work of art I am getting positive feedback from visitors here. And this is good news for me as this collection would be showcased at Amazon India Fashion Week in Delhi next month,” says Pallavi, while throwing light on the collection.
Fables on fabric
Pallavi loves fables and this is the reason behind revisiting the Lewis Caroll classic. Recreating its characteristics in modern looking outfits was an exciting experience for the designer who likes working on her fantasies.
“All my collections are a reflection of my love for nature. Here all outfits are coalescence of the quirks of the fantasy world. Along with the garments, even the design space has been specifically created in a way that brings to life the whimsy and mystery that is Alice’s enchanting wonderland. It has fantastical side of nature which I have used in a whimsy way on my outfits”.
“Alice in Wonderland” is one of Pallavi’s favourite novels and admits the character of Alice and her surroundings has lot of potential to be interpreted in a modern context. .
“I have always been inspired by its idiosyncrasies, its wild flowers and peculiar creature. So I have played with new techniques and colours . This collection pays homage to the genius of Lewis Caroll.”
“ The idea behind the project is to create an unforgettable visual experience. In that sense, it is not solely about the garment but the also the emotion that you are able to evoke with it,” she elaborates.
The methodology of creating the oversized outfits was unusual yet interesting. “II worked on the reverse side. This entailed using varied techniques, embroideries to create intricate designs and then put them in classy old shapes. I have used a melange of colours, predominantly gold and silver The work is arty, dreamlike and whimsical. It has lot of fun elements which epitomise my work.”
Creating and using unusually large flowers as motifs was a challenge. “ The process of executing a creative thought is always exciting but also extremely challenging. A major challenge of working with large flowers is the struggle to keep it looking dainty and elegant and not quite so loud and overwhelming.”
Silk, her favourite fabric, was used to lendsheen to the outfits. “You can see me experimenting and playing around with silk organza in various forms in almost all my collections. The fabric to me is symbolic of femininity and elegance. I have always loved the use of sheer organza in delicate pastel shades and a lot of European vintage colours in voluminous styles.”
Another hallmark of her design sensibility is creating geometric patterns which seem 3D- inspired.
“Right from the first collection down to the latest, 3D patterns have always inspired me. We adopt multiple processes to create geometric patterns. Wiring is used to create petal and making them look three dimensional. We do hand pleating and laser cut. There is digital printing involved and then sublimation. We use a lot of hand crafted techniques like beading, overlapping, layering, patch work and appliqué work to bring the geometric patterns live on the garment.”
