Anita Dongre pays homage to the skilful hands of traditional craftsmen through her ‘Grassroot’ collection which she launched this past week at her store in Mumbai. In an attempt to sustain, revive and empower what the old offers to the new, she collaborates with multiple NGOs across India.
Her designs are a manifestation of a mélange of couture and prêt. Her store breathes colour and intricacy right from the fashion wear it exhibits to the walls that exemplify works of history and art.
‘Grassroot’ involves going back to the villages where the eyes of craftsmen work in synchronisation with their hands. “The inspiration comes from the craft and the need to ensure that it is sustained,” says Anita.
She brings back the stunning Ahir embroidery from Radhanpur and Patan that’s exclusive to the Ahir tribe of Gujarat as a result of her close association with the SEWA Trade Facilitation Centre.
‘Grassroot’ features the art of block print, tie-dye, chikkankari, jadau and copper-jute jewellery.
The store has a photo of 80-year-old Bhachiben Bhurabhai Ahir, the founding member of SEWA Trade Facilitation Centre, who, along with Diana Penty are the ambassadors of the collection. The combination of the two makes the motive behind ‘Grassroot’ come full circle, passing the wisdom of yesterday to the light of today. “There are numerous crafts that are on the verge of extinction and one has to make them survive. Women, young and old, not just in India, but across the world enjoy patronising craft. I want to spend my lifetime on ‘Grassroot’. It has been a long-cherished dream that has finally come true and one lifetime is not enough, there is so much to do,” observes Anita.
When asked about how necessary it is to feel what you design, Anita says, “It’s a combination of understanding the craftsmen's capability and consumers' choice. Design is emotional and my success is led by design and my consumers. It’s also about setting a direction. Not creating just a fad but a design. You also express yourself by what you wear.”
Speaking of the challenges, she says, “Somewhere, the design is yours and you are reflecting what fashion is today. But fashion is constantly changing and you express the design in your voice and also imagine the consumer will relate to it and want to wear it.”
Fashion weeks have become a trend, she adds. “It’s amazing what the FPCI has done. Now is a good time for fashion in India and there is a lot of scope for experimentation.” Anita, the mastermind behind brands such as AND and Global Desi gives a tip to aspiring designers: “Ensure your passion continues and understand who your consumer is and design accordingly.”
