Flavours unlimited from the Malabar coast

Try your hand at these traditional Malabari dishes

July 02, 2014 06:35 pm | Updated 06:35 pm IST - Thiruvananthapuram

Unnakaya, a sweet delicacy from Malabar. Photo: K. Ragesh

Unnakaya, a sweet delicacy from Malabar. Photo: K. Ragesh

Flavours of the Malabar coast exude the aroma of spicy food redolent with the spices of Kerala. Savour the cuisine of Malabar from the comforts of home.

Chef Shijo Kurian says: “This is our take on the famous Thalassery/ Kannur style mutton biriyani. It is an exotic dish prepared during special events in north Kerala. It is a simplified version to fit in with our fast life style; the taste is not lost, however.”

THALASSERY MUTTON BIRIYANI (Serves 4)

Ingredients

1 lb (about 500 gm) mutton, cut into large pieces

Half tsp chilli powder

Half tsp turmeric powder

1 tbsp yogurt

Garam masala – as required

1 tbsp of chopped ginger

1 tbsp of chopped green chilli

1 tbsp of chopped garlic

One medium sized onion, sliced

One small tomato, sliced

Quarter cup water (for cooking mutton)

Salt – according to taste

2 cups Kaima rice

1 onion, small (sliced thinly for frying)

Raisins and cashews (optional)

4 cups water

1 tbsp of ghee (clarified butter)

1 tbsp of vegetable oil

Pudina (mint) and coriander leaves - thinly chopped

Method

Cooking the mutton

Wash mutton and add chilli powder, turmeric powder, half tsp garam masala (try using whole masala such as cloves, cinnamon, star anise and basil leaves for a better flavour). Coarse grind green chilli, garlic and ginger and add to mutton. Marinate the mutton pieces with yogurt and keep aside for 15 minutes. Cook the mutton with onion and tomato for about 15 minutes (3– 4 whistles). Take the mutton pieces from the pressure cooker and lightly fry it on a hot wok on the sides.

Cooking the rice

Heat four cups of water. Wash the biriyani/Basmati rice with water and drain it. In a thick bottom vessel (must have a properly fitting lid), add the oil and ghee and heat it on medium.

Fry the onion slices over low heat until golden brown and keep it aside. Fry cashew and raisins and keep it aside. Add the basmati rice to the oil and fry for 1 minute (just warm up only, so that rice is covered with oil). Add the enough warm water. Add salt and some garam masala or whole spices. Cook the rice at high heat till the water starts to boil and cover the lid. Cook at low heat till the rice absorbs all the water.

(Assembling the biriyani)

Fry the mutton in a non-stick pan for 3 minutes with 1 tsp of oil, enough to turn the colour on sides and dry it. In a baking pan add half of the cooked rice as a layer and then add the mutton pieces and spread half of the pudina and coriander leaves and the fried onions, cashew and raisins. Spread the remaining rice and spread some garam masala on top of the rice and cover with aluminium foil and bake it at 300 degree F for 20 - minutes. Garnish with remaining pudina and coriander leaves, fried onions, cashew and raisins. Serve with salad and date pickle.

MALABAR KONJU CURRYIngredients

4 tbsp oil or ghee

10 fresh curry leaves

Half tsp black mustard seeds

Half tsp fenugreek seeds

1 medium onions, finely chopped

1 tsp fresh ginger puree

Half tsp fresh chilli powder

1 tsp coriander powder

Half tsp turmeric powder

150 gm creamed tomatoes

100 ml water

Quarter tsp tamarind paste

300 ml thick coconut milk

Method

Split the curry leaves and mustard seeds in half (you will use half now and half later). In a wok heat 3 tbsp of oil or ghee until hot. Add the curry leaves, mustard seeds and fenugreek seed and the fresh ginger and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the onions and continue to sauté on a medium heat until golden brown. Add the chilli, coriander, turmeric and sauté for two minutes. Add the creamed tomatoes and tamarind paste and cook for another two minutes. Add the stock and continue to simmer (the consistency should not be too watery so if it looks watery, do not add too much stock).

Add the raw prawns and cook for 10 minutes. Then reduce the heat to low and add the coconut milk. In a small frying pan heat 1 tbsp of oil until hot and add the other half of the curry leaves and mustard seeds. Fry for 20 seconds then tip into the curry. Serve immediately.

AATUKAAL SOUPIngredients

600 gm mutton, leg bones

1 onion (medium sized)

Red shallots, a handful

1 tbsp Fennel seeds

1 tsp black pepper, whole

One and a half tbsp fenugreek seeds

4 cups water

Cilantro to garnish

Salt to taste

Method

Clean and wash the bones. Select some pieces with a bit of meat on it too. Chop the onions and powder the fennel seeds. Take a pressure cooker and cook the pieces with the onions, and all other spices as specified above. You would have to cook for about 20 -30 minutes on very low heat after the whistle.

Remove the lid after the cooker has sufficiently cooled down and remove the pieces with meat on it. Reserve the meat and a couple of spoonfuls of the fenugreek-onion from the stock. Remove all the bones and then mash the remaining stock and the onions with a blender or back of a spoon.

Strain the liquid through a medium sieve. Adjust the salt of the strained soup and add the reserved onions and the meat pieces. Garnish with fresh cilantro and pepper. Serve hot

UNNAKKAYA (Makes 8)

Ingredients

3 ripe bananas (steamed and remove the black seeds inside)

For preparing the banana filling

4 tbsp ghee or butter

Quarter cup cashew nuts crushed

1 cup grated coconut

2 eggs

Cardamom powder - as per taste

Quarter cup sugar

Pinch of salt

Vegetable oil - for frying

Method

Mash the steamed banana without any lump (If banana becomes very smooth, refrigerate for some time or you can add little rice powder) and keep it aside. Consistency should be the same as chapatti / pizza dough.

(Preparing the filling)

Heat ghee or butter in a pan and fry cashew nuts and then add the grated coconut. Sauté these until golden brown. Add cardamom powder and sugar along with a pinch of salt. Add eggs and sauté for a minute so that everything is mixed well. Switch of the flame and allow to cool.

(Preparing the unnakkaya)

Grease hands with ghee and make lemon size ball with mashed banana. Flatten this in your hands and fill with Coconut filling. Close the banana with hands and make egg-like shape. Heat oil in a thick bottomed pan and fry the unnakkaya by turning them constantly so that all sides are fried well. Once unnakkaya turns golden brown, drain on a tissue paper. Serve hot with hot black tea.

(Chef Shijo works at The Capital Hotel, Pulimoodu)

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