In 2001, when Ahmed Ammouri visited India for the first time, he broke down. Coming to work at The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, the Lebanese chef was overwhelmed at the sight of the slums, the humidity of the place and the mad rush of people. “For the first three months, I didn’t leave the hotel,” he says. Yet, he stayed in this country for eight years, moving on to work in The Taj West End, Bangalore in 2004 and travelled around the country — Hyderabad, Lucknow, Delhi, Udaipur — to conduct food festivals as the ambassador Lebanese chef.
“Then, the cuisine was only about cold mezze, hummus and shawarma.” One of the first Lebanese chefs to move to India, Ahmed introduced his customers to different, hitherto unknown dishes like tabouleh, fattoush, baba ghanoush, kibbeh and more. “I can’t say everybody liked it. Because, here, people like spicy food. Nobody complained though.” The difference, he explains, is that even though both cuisines use many flavourful spices, Indian food is still feistier.
Lebanese food is light and healthy, cooked with lots of olive oil, nuts and spices like anise, cinnamon, cardamom, sweet spice and seven spice. There is more bread, than rice, and more baking and grilling, as opposed to frying. It is also heavy on the meat. “You use more curry powder, red chillies, green chillies and black pepper, and these are not used in Lebanese cuisine.” The spices, he adds, are all available here, but only, they are Indianised, taking away from the authenticity of the flavour.
“I don’t make Lebanese-Indian,” he says, strictly. Though, over the years, he has learnt to suit the requirements of his Indian customers. “I never say no to a guest. If you want spicy food, I will give spicy food. But I will say it is not authentic Lebanese.”
In 2009, Ahmed finally decided he wanted to go home. “Sometimes, you need someone who speaks the same language. Every day, I would call home twice, just to speak in Arabic. I have lots of friends in this country, but they are all Indian.” When he returned, he worked as the personal chef for some powerful people, including Najib Mikati, former Prime Minister of Lebanon. Yet, he says he prefers working for a hotel. “If you cook for a restaurant, you make the same thing for everyone. But in a house, you have to cater to each person’s palate.”
When Rakesh Sethi, general manager, The Raintree, called him to create a Lebanese food festival at their restaurant, Colony, Ahmed agreed without much ado. “I am so happy to be back. I love this country.”
He’s back this time, with 12 spices and a falafel maker, to put out a spread that includes dense cubes of feta rolled in spices, tabouleh made from fresh, flat parsley, saucy shawarmas rolled in thick pita bread, the razbila laham (rice flavoured with meat and nuts), crunchy fattoush, creamy hummus, grilled lamb, baklava, basbousa and more. He, however, has not eaten anything Lebanese since he got to the city. He has instead tried dosas, idlis, appams, curries and his favourite, chicken tikka. Yet, he’s curious to know more about the flavours Chennai offers. “Since I came here, I’ve been busy. I think I am going to postpone my tickets to see the city,” grins the chef.
Lebanese Food Festival is held at The Raintree, St.Mary’s Road, till October 18. The dinner buffet opens at 7 p.m. and is priced at Rs. 1,450, plus taxes. Call 4225 2525.
