Followed my heart, business simply followed: fashion designer Anita Dongre on her success

Success Quotient is a weekly feature that appears every Friday in Firstpost, which looks at the pains and joys en route to success for a head honcho - whether a CEO, MD or an entrepreneur. The column looks at the ideas that helped launch a company, its highs and lows.

In the midst of shifting to her sprawling one lakh sq.ft. garment factory premises at Rabale, on the outskirts of the city, fashion designer Anita Dongre squeezed in some time to talk with Firstpost. It is a big shift for a Bandra girl who has lived and made a name for herself and her brands in the city since 1995 – the flagship brand AND, which is into western wear (price points starting from Rs 799-Rs 3,499); Global Desi, women’s Indo-western fusion wear (Rs 699-Rs 3,999); Anita Dongre Inter Pret (Rs 3,999-Rs 25,000) and Timeless (above Rs 25,000). The 51 year-old designer has achieved her dream of making fashion affordable which was her intention seeing the creations of her most admired designer, Giorgio Armani’s accessible to the upper middle class. Heading a Rs 300 crore empire, the designer talks about her journey to her destination and where she wants to go from here.

Excerpts from the conversation:

What were your main influences while you were studying fashion?

As a kid, I used to spend a lot of time in my grandmother’s house in Jaipur, and was completely enamoured by the beauty of Rajasthan, the colourful markets, the architecture, the people, etc. That place ignited a creative spark me in me, and I decided, that designing would be my chosen path. I always dreamt I wanted to have the labels I have created and much more. I think it came naturally to me, so I always knew that my love for design and fashion would someday make me what I am today.

How important is it for a designer to have a fashion-related degree? To me fashion precedes everything else. You need to be gifted and love what you do. Having said that fashion has become quite a competitive industry today and a fashion-related degree helps one get a better understanding of the creative and technical skills involved.

What does it take to start your own label and make it as an independent designer?

It has been a challenging journey. I faced a fair share of opposition from my family. But I was determined and started a small workshop on my bedroom balcony with support from my sister – that laid my foundation.

It’s a blessing to be able to dress people, give them fashion, and make women feel good about themselves. I am going to work until the end. What I would like to leave behind is a fantastic fashion house that believes in the value system we have set.

Did you write a business plan?

I followed my heart and business simply followed.

What has been most surprising experience about growing your company?

One doesn’t necessarily have to follow paths successfully set by other people but new paths can be hewn against marketing, wisdom and convention that can lead to surprising results. For instance, High Street and luxury brands can happily co-exist under one business umbrella.

What do you consider the most exciting milestones for the company?

Right now, it is about having moved my corporate headquarters, nestling amongst hills in an eco-friendly building, following a lovely green philosophy.

How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Understated elegance and offering the consumer ‘accessible luxury’ would be my forte. My signature label Anita Dongre, which offers bridal, couture, pret, menswear and jewellery, is bound by a common thread of sophisticated elegance sans decorative detailing. I love all things Indian, and being inspired by Rajasthan, my collection sees the use of lots of Indian weaves and techniques, with gota patti being a signature element.

Where do you go for inspiration?

I find inspiration in almost everything - travelling, music, dancing, books; but one of my strongest sources of inspiration is Rajasthan.

How much does travel influence your design? How does that influence translate into a reality?

My early memories of Rajasthan are that of my summer holidays that were spent at my grandmother’s palatial house in Jaipur, and since then the place has occupied a very special space in my mind and heart. I have always been fascinated with the detailing of the architectural splendor of the state and still try to incorporate some of its elements in my creations.

Is there any place in the world that you haven’t been to yet that you would like to visit from a professional perspective?

Alaska, because it is far from the maddening crowd!

Who do you think is the ideal AND woman? And man, too?

The Anita Dongre woman is a modern urban girl who, while challenging convention, loves all things traditional, speaks her mind, is free spirited and adventurous. The Anita Dongre Man is a seamless blend of modern outlook and traditional values.

You have made successful inroads internationally. How different is the fashion aesthetics globally? What are the challenges for you while you design for a global audience?

As a fashion house, we think and act global. My brands represent the new age, multi-tasking audience that seeks versatility in their fashion choices. Over the years, the brands have evolved to keep pace with changing lifestyles and the ever evolving sartorial choices of the modern day audience.

How do you stay true to your vision?

By following it passionately.

The piece of clothing that you think everyone should have in their wardrobe?

Bandis! For both men and women– it’s one of the most versatile fashion pieces.

What is your personal favorite AND dress?

Linen shirt dresses – they are my go-to outfits

Who is your fashion icon?

My grandmother for her grace and charm

What is your favorite personal creation?

A Benarasi shirt dress – first piece from my Benarasi loom!

What is your biggest fear?

My biggest fear would be losing my passion

What, according to you, needs to change in the India fashion industry?

The Indian fashion industry is still young but is definitely more organized than what it was about 15 years ago and is growing at a rapid pace. The industry needs to evolve and adapt quickly to overcome the changing patterns in demands from the consumers.

What do people not know about designing a clothing line? 

That quality and craft are key to a clothing line.

What advice would you give entrepreneurs who want to follow in your footsteps?

You have to be passionate, driven and always remember that there is no shortcut to success. Creativity is a work in progress, so continue to enhance it and never confine it. The key is to constantly innovate and evolve with the changing times.

What are you aiming for next?

My next move would be to promote Indian weaves and crafts and make them contemporary. My vision is to empower the craftsmen and weavers and showcase their craft to the world.

How do you recover after a hard day’s work?

I like to unwind by listening to music, taking a walk or dancing.