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Take a leaf out of history at this food festival

Dine like royalty, and enjoy the cuisine of the nawabs of Rampur

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(Clockwise from top left) Gulatthi; Taar ghosht; Saans-e-Dum-Pulao
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It is not always that one gets to savour dishes that date back to the 17th century (may be older), carefully crafted with ingredients that are a closely guarded secret. Passed on to generations like a family heirloom, the treasured recipes reflect the years of passion and dedication. Giving a sneak peek of such treasured recipes, the khaansamas will take you back in time with the Dine With The Royals food festival at JW Marriott, Aerocity. Its multi- cuisine restaurant K3, is buzzing with stories of the erstwhile nawab of Rampur, and his love for food, as the 12-day event brings to the capital a slice of history through its biryanis, kebabs, kormas and halwas.

FOOD

Taar ghosht known as the aam aadmi ka khaas khana, is a staple during waleema (dinner served by groom during weddings) in Rampur. Says chef Suroor Khan, who is part of the team of four chefs — all descendants of khaansamas who cooked for the Rampur royalty centuries ago, who are now carrying forward that legacy, “The dish was proposed by the then nawab who felt the common man cannot afford dry fruits. So the chefs in his kitchen prepared the taar ghosht which is meat slow cooked for hours in its own juices.” The layer of oil, which is in fact, fat of the meat, can shock a weight watcher but taar ghosht tastes delicious. The meat is well-cooked, and is best had with piping hot roomali roti.

During the meal, chef Bhoora Qureshi, who is third-generation khaansama of the nawab, shares tidbits on kachche ghosht ki tikki. (Meat plays an important role in Rampuri cuisine). The aroma wafting from the kebabi is a heady blend of the secret spices that these people hold close to their chest. Shallow-fried, only onion, ginger and garlic have been added to the meat along with these spices. Though minced, they melt in the mouth. We can taste the meat, its juices intact, unlike the I in which spices drown the original taste of the mutton. “This was eaten in jungles when the nawabs went for shikaar because it is easy to cook,” shares Qureshi, who serves it with three different chutneys — yellow chilli, mint and tamarind.   

Next on the plate is kathal ka salan — jackfruit cooked in curd rich gravy, finished with cream. The highlight of the dish is the use of yellow chilli which gives it a bright yellow colour, besides a mildly spicy after taste. The kasoori methi added to the aromatic Chicken Changhezi adds a bitter robust taste to its succulent pieces, while dahi brings a rich, creamy texture to it.  The Saans-e-Dum-Pulao is a standout dish. Each grain of rice is delicately laced with the fragrance of kewda and bay leaves but it has a certain sweetness, which we cannot identify. Shariq Khan, another team member who has culled the recipe from Alwan Neymat, a cookbook written in 1779, and is now part of their heirloom, tells us that the sweetness comes from star anise. The spice is the main ingredient after the mutton in the biryani. In the vegetarian dishes, we try the Baingan Achari. The flavours of the raw mango powder, tamarind and mustard work their magic on this much despised vegetable, and we can’t help but give in.

The winners in this three-course meal, is murg angaar —  Rampuri version of chicken tikka, and I. The latter represents this rich cuisine. The sugar is balanced and the khoya blends wonderfully with the meat, betraying any trace of mutton in the halwa. The traditional, sweet Gulatthi — a dish akin to kheer is delicious.

Verdict: This fare has the potential to convert staunch loyalists.
Where: K3, JW Marriott, Aerocity
When: Till March 26.

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