Style debate: Skinny vs Relaxed

Some Indian men cringe at the very idea of wearing anything too skinny or snug-fitting and then there are those who find a relaxed fit rather frumpy. The likes of Hedi Slimane, Philipp Plein and Troy Costa (in India) have toyed with the form-flattering, contoured fit season after season and then there’s a group of style arbiters, who believe that skinny is officially dead like designer Gaurav Khanijo. Guess, it has a lot to do with one’s body type and sense of carriage. Both the styles can go drastically wrong if there’s no sense of balance while putting together the look from head-to-toe. After Hrs gets the two ends of the spectrum to get across their point of view...

Skinny
Troy Costa

I’ll be honest, a slouchy fit doesn’t really sell on the racks and an average man is not really in the best shape to pull it off. I have realised that if a garment is even half-a-centimetre loose, people are iffy about it. If you ask me, skinny pants are the best option. A relaxed fit works well for a very lean and thin boy.

I don’t see a slouchy fit working in the Indian context. I don’t see wide-legged trousers working well at all. As far as Spring 2018 is concerned, I don’t see the menswear silhouette changing at all. For example, a double breasted jacket has to be complemented by a pair of slim pants. Having said that, a slouchy silhouette may work in an athleisure space. Now with sportswear gaining prominence across the board, one sees new-age fabrics exclusively developed for the athletic bracket. I honestly see relaxed, baggy fit working in the hip hop space and youngsters, who follow the likes of Justin Bieber. An average man doesn’t dress like that, it’s just a small segment of people in music and sports. I don’t see it working for a working class man or in the ceremonial space.

A guy heading a Formula One company with money to buy a Philipp Plein outfit would opt for skinny, no matter what. I have been travelling a lot in Italy and I see most Italian menswear brands focusing on tailored or fitted tailoring. It’s easy to make clothes that don’t fit you. As a designer, I have experimented with skinny always with a play of knits, which flatters the contours of the body like the width of your ankle. Then you team it with a flamboyant jacket on the top. However, I haven’t got into the ultra-skinny rock space at all, but kept it young, modern and colourful. I see skinny growing strong in the future with neoprene and other stretch fabrics in matt and glossy form gaining momentum. The new-age age uber-sexual male wants clothes, which are well-fitted. He wants clothing which adds to his confidence.

Relaxed
Gaurav Khanijo

I believe skinny has taken a backseat and designers across the board are reviving the vintage style. I’d say high-waist, easy and straight fit and I won’t call it ‘slouchy’. It’s not wide-legged. It spells summer, comfort and breathability, which one doesn’t get from a pair of skinny jeans. I am focusing on reviving pleated pants and I am all for ease, when it comes to clothing. I’d like to underscore the fact that skinny and slim are two different things. Skinny becomes too skinny. If I was making a pair of leather pants, it’s got to be skinny and snug-fitting like Balmain does. As an Indian designer catering to the Indian market, I need clothing, which is climate friendly.

You relate to it if you were born in the 80s, which was never too skinny. Skinny style has been in for 10 years and now is the time to embrace a relaxed approach to dressing. Armani always does easy pleats
synonymous with Italian tailors. I deal with a lot of bespoke clients, among them the young boys want something easy and the middle-aged men want something slim. Clearly, the young boys are following the trends
more. I feel happy when I see young clients, who want pleated pants. For example, cotton chinos work well with our weather and look great when cut straight. One’s got to admit that we are still behind when it
comes to following trends. As far as guys, who like to flaunt their worked out bodies in skinny style are concerned, I’d like to say that either bring the focus on your thighs or biceps but not on both. When they wear a skinny jacket teamed with a pair of skinny pants, they look funny. One needs to balance it out — club it with straighter pants to lessen the skinny or pair a ripped fitted jeans with a baggy top.