Style debate: Chintz vs Kitsch

In Indian fashion history, the print panorama has been so diverse and vast that it has become an integral part of our global identity. Chintz and kitsch have been the key flagbearers of the Indian print story. On one side, we have the delicate and intricately-realised ornamental florals or chintz, which have enchanted the globe and also emerged to be the iconic graphic identity of refined global Indian-ness and on the other end of the spectrum, one sees the bold and dynamic saturated and pop kitsch motifs, which scream the iconic poster art of the early Bollywood. Both of these distinct print nostalgia have over a period of time captivated designers’ fantasy both on Indian shores and on global runways. Brands like Etro, Nikasha, Anamika Khanna, Rohit Bal and Payal Singhal have adopted the quintessential paisley as their brand soul and we have seen kitschy poster art on the moodboards of Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Masaba, Nida Mahmood and Manish Arora. After Hrs gets designers Payal Singhal and Manish Arora to argue for the two distinctive print stories...  

‘Chintz has a universal charm’ 
Payal Singhal 

While chintz is normally associated with a European origin, what makes it even more iconic for me is that it was actually born in India. It was when the Portuguese and Dutch traders were bringing it back to Europe in the 1600s that it garnered popularity internationally, largely for use as tapestry. It has been suggested that wearing them as clothes began when these were replaced and given to maidservants, who made them into dresses and also that they were first worn as linings helped the fabric gain momentum as a sartorial staple too. Such was the demand for Indian chintz that the French and English governments banned its import to support their local mills. 

The fact that chintz has endured the test of time says a lot about its universal charm. Here is a pattern that is as iconic as it is versatile and is easy to reinterpret, helping it remain relevant through centuries. Our brand too is constantly exploring newer ways of working with chintz — we change the motifs and colours as well as use in it embroideries apart from championing its conventional form. It’s a timeless motif that is easy to reinvent. Rest assured, it’s going to remain so for a long time to come. Kitsch prints are fun as fast fashion, but its quirky persona limits its influence to a very niche age group and style sensibility. It’s a case of ‘here today, gone tomorrow’. For me, classic always trumps of-the-moment, so there is no question about my loyalty to chintz over kitsch.

‘Kitsch is here to stay’ 
Manish Arora 

Kitsch in the dictionary is described as something garish, but hopefully, over the years, I’ve managed to change that perception for people. Ever since I became a designer in 1997, I’ve had terms like eclectic and cool used to describe by design aesthetic along with the ‘King of Pop’ and ‘King of Kitsch,’ honestly, for me, it’s about creating a world that I want to live in. My collections are for the woman of today, who is confident and would love to be the center of attention the moment she walks into a room and that’s why my designs are bold and vibrant. In the art space and pop imagery it would definitely have to be Andy Warhol. He routinely took pop culture icons like Marilyn Monroe and Michael Jackson and turned them into pop art. Kitsch is here to stay. It’s definitely not for everyone but it’s been around for years and will be in mainstream India for many more years to come. I’m glad that this trend is going more mainstream, a few years ago, I was the only designer in India, who was doing bold prints and vibrant colours. I think as long as the designs are good and the audience identifies with them, it will work. According to me, this is nothing as a quirky print overkill as long as you’re confident enough to wear and carry the designs.