Sahara & the cyclist

Is it possible to take a short cut through a desert? Will you chance upon an oasis if you take a detour? Is there an oasis in the western Sahara? Does the sand only host dunes or allows lifeforms to sustain?

Sahara, an inhabitable vast expanse of greige (grey and beige) where distance and direction are incomprehensible, has been known as a place to be visited only in caravans. But a 46-year-old father of two decided he'd rather travel through the planet's largest desert on his hybrid bicycle. And so, in the winter of 2016, Howrah resident and avid mountaineer, Anindya Mukherjee, began to plan and plot his desert travel. "My love for the African continent began after a visit to Mt Kilimanjaro in 2005," says Mukherjee. "It was a learning experience. In spite of poverty, the people there are happy and content. This made me want to go back."

Mukherjee's mission was to pedal 2,085km through three African states — Morocco, Western Sahara and Mauritania — before ending his trip in Senegal. Having read numerous accounts of others who'd achieved this feat, he knew it was possible to cycle from one settlement to another in a single day. This meant he could dispense with a tent and sleeping bag — essentials that would've otherwise weighed him down by a few kilos.

Yet, packing for the trip was a challenge. Mukherjee dismantled his hybrid bike to transport it to Morocco. In the bike's panniers, he carried a repair kit with screwdrivers, an open end and Allen wrench set each, a tube patch kit, a chain brush, lube and cleaner, tire levers and a pump. He also had a compass, a head torch, a butane gas burner, knife, a plastic sheet, a light sleeping bag, a map, a notebook a phone and power bank. "I carried just one change of clothes," says Mukherjee, adding that with four litres of water, the bicycle weighed 20kgs. The trip, says Mukherjee, cost him $4,200, (about Rs 2,70,000), of which he was able to raise $1,800 on the crowd-funding portal Beeyodo.

On the road

Mukherjee started riding on 27 February from southern Morocco's Guelmim town. Heading southwards along the coast, he used the Morocco-Western Sahara-Mauritania route. "Compared to Morocco and the Western Sahara region, considered rather safe for solo travellers, Mauritania proves to be the most hostile because of constant kidnappings carried out by Al Qaeda factions rampant in the cities of Nouadhibou-Nouakchott, in Mauritania," says Mukherjee. "Armies of their respective nations are present all along the trans-Sahara road. On several occasions, the soldiers noted down my mobile phone number so they could call to ensure I was doing well."

Mukherjee's days would start early. He'd rise by 5am and after a hearty breakfast, leave his resting area a couple of hours later, to spend the day riding. Afternoon temperatures in the Sahara would soar up to 46 degree Centigrade, which meant that he'd have to keep himself hydrated. "Rationing water is crucial. I was very surprised to find boda bags and waterskins left behind by army personnel for travellers," he says. And even though the heat was stressful, desert storms proved to be more treacherous. "I recall one day when the storm was so strong that I had to halt for five hours. The dust flew all over the desert floor," he says.

On an average, Mukherjee covered a distance of 87km per day before stopping at the next post in the evening. Following an 'eat what you get' motto, his main meals comprised of meat during mornings and evenings. He also maintained a small stock of proteins to snack on during the day, nibbling on dates, chocolates and biscuits. The one activity he spent time on for each of the 28 days he spent in the Sahara was cleaning his bike. "It was critical to keep the dust off." For the most part, Mukherjee's journey was a lonely one. He met few people and the only life he encountered was in insects and desert scorpions. "There'd be times I'd feel terribly lonely," he says before quickly adding, "because I am used to trekking alone, I would start thinking of the journey ahead. That would make things better." On 26 March, Mukherjee reached Dakar, the capital of Senegal, culminating the trip that he had long dreamed of. "I was relaxed and happy. That night, I closed my eyes and tried to replay each day spent cycling, but before the days played back in my mind, I fell asleep. It was a well-earned sleep."