Finding meaning in food

Arth — is Gauri Khan’s  first restaurant design venture. The interiors have her trademark style and spell opulence and grandeur. Right from the old-world chandeliers that create a warm glow to two pendant installations — the Rex Diamond above the bar, and the Phylum pendant in the foyer not only add a touch of sophistication but are also conversation starters. The kitchen is manned by chef Amninder Sandhu, who has accepted the gauntlet to cook food without a gas and yet create something that is not only visually appealing but also a palate pleaser.

Food: The amouse bouche Panipuri Explosion is a step in that direction. Served in an oyster shell, these white chocolate varq-coated balls, are shaped to look like pearls. And true to its name, one bite and your tongue is coated with the tangy pani puri water. That sets the bar of expectations. The morrels (R 850) stuffed with smoked mushroom mince on nachni soil and walnuts are delicious. The Paneer (Rs 300) chargrilled with fennel and saffron is cooked to perfection, revealing paneer that melts in your mouth. While the chargrilled Bhekti (`450) with Naga spring salt, mejenga leaf and roselle is perfectly seasoned and whets your appetite. For the mains, we recommend the Fish Net (Rs 425) pomfret, koshimbir and ghavne not only for its visual appeal but for its delectable execution. The Bird in a Nest (Rs 425) chicken with black sesame seed and purple yam iddiyappams is another visually appealing dish. While the purple yam takes some getting used to, the chicken is delicious. The Jalebi rabdi (Rs 225) is interesting, served here on a stick like a lollypop that has to be dipped and enjoyed with the rabdi. The Mango Cornets (Rs 225) baked yogurt and Alphonso mangoes would definitely be our dessert pick as it’s a beautiful dessert that honours the king of fruits in delectable style. 

AT: Arth, 604, Pinnacle House, PD Hinduja Marg, 15th Road, off Linking Road, Bandra (W)