Spring 2017 lines are high on pastel tones and saccharine-induced concoctions
Picture cupcakes, macaroons and rich creamy icing and you’ve pretty much summed up the core idea behind some of the couture 2017 collections. Be it the dégradé tulle at Viktor & Rolf, tiered frothy floor-sweeping numbers at Giambattista Valli or Chanel’s pale pink luscious feathers accenting the shine-on dresses — this season of couture has been high on sugar rush. Also, worth mentioning here are Dior and Valentino, who presented ruffled and pleated gowns in pale tones and Atelier Versace presentation, who showcased their signature chainmail numbers. Given the turbulent times we live in, is couture opting for escapism? We ask style arbiters...
Fashion is fantasy
Designer Wendell Rodricks interprets fashion as “fantasy”. He says, “What has happened on couture ramps is an escape to a world of innocence, true couture and beauty. Pastels and ruffles that hark back to a romantic era, pastels that are ethereal, shine that is more silver and less gold bling and clothes that are not street but more couture atelier."
Best time for escapism
Nonita Kalra, Editor, Harper’s Bazaar observes that there is no better time than now to practise escapism. “While fashion has always been the most beautiful reflection of social change — the trend of tulle doesn’t come from turmoil, alone. A year ago, at Paris Fashion Week Balenciaga, Balmain, and Alexander McQueen were all about ruffles. This RTW season as well, I suspect, fashion will stay firmly in the romantic era. The key trend to watch out for is feminism. Women are being celebrated for their strength and their softness. I think Maria Grazia's new collection for Dior says everything.”
Princess chic
Sujata Assomull, Fashion Editor, Khaleej Times says, “For a while now we have seen the princess look become strong, be it on the red carpet or on the runway and the couture shows confirmed that we are going to have a princess moment. We are going through a time of flux and uncertainty so it is no surprise that fashion has reacted with escapism. ”
Many different threads in the shows
Fashion commentator Nishat Fatima points to many different aspects to couture besides candyfloss. “Did the designers take their broken hearts and make them into pouffy ball gowns? There was no sense of it from an overview of the runways, their collection statements or interviews. (And nor were there too many pouffy ball gowns, Lily-Rose Depp in Chanel notwithstanding.) There were many different threads in the shows. There were trousers at Jean Paul Gaultier, pared back silhouettes at Valentino, chainmail at Versace (a house signature) and sexed up denim and 80s at Alexandre Vauthier and upcycling at Viktor & Rolf. As for socio-political changes, the September shows will likely have be a more fertile ground to reflect designers’ reactions,” adds Nishat.
Non-controversial hues
Fashion columnist Asmita Aggarwal attributes it to fashion’s reaction to global instability. “With Trump coming to power there is global uncertainty. I think the move to pastels reflects a rather safe mode that designers have gone to. They are sticking to non controversial hues which is in keeping with the global feeling of a wait and watch strategy. ” says she.
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