Darjeeling flush bitter in separatist cup

Darjeeling tea, the world's finest, is in for a bitter brew this season.

In the season of the prized second flush, tea traders are caught in separatist unrest that began in the picturesque hills a week ago.

As tea gardens remain unplucked, losses are estimated to have touched Rs 100 crore. Declining yields had already rattled the industry. Experts say that the survival of several tea estates is now in question.

Anshuman Kanoria of Tindharia Tea Estate says, "There is tremendous damage. Our estimate of losses worth Rs 100 crore is based on the assumption that the strike lifts on Monday. If it continues, we will lose out on the three most crucial auctions of the year that start in July, because we will have zero arrival."

Kanoria, who is also the chairman of the Calcutta Tea Traders' Association, says that every additional day of strike is causing losses worth Rs 5 crore.

The strike called by thousands of Gorkha Janamukti Morcha (GJM) supporters on June 15 has seen large-scale riots and arson. They want a separate state for the area's majority Nepali-speaking ethnic Gorkha community within West Bengal.

Madhav Sarda of tea retailers Golden Tips Co says that in the first flush, leaves flush slowly. But when the winter is gone, and the sun shines with the onset of summer, the bushes flush very fast.

"Plucking needs to happen quickly, almost every 6-7 days to retain the musky note which is the trademark of Darjeeling tea. Almost all tea estates in the hills are shut, and the bushes will be useless," he says.

Trouble broke in Darjeeling at the height of tourist season after the West Bengal's TMC government angered the Gorkhas by announcing plans to make the Bengali language mandatory in state schools. At least four people have been killed and more than 100 others, including 30 policemen, have been injured in clashes.

Unplucked tea gardens have already led to a loss of 1 million kilograms. The collective yield from the 87 tea estates, spread across Darjeeling and Kalimpong districts, which are recognised estates producing the prized Darjeeling tea, usually touches 8 million kgs. In 2016, the yield was 8.5 million kgs.

Kanoria says that not plucking can lead to the leaves becoming hard, and bushes will need to be slashed. Across the estates, this could amount to 50 per cent to 90 per cent of the bushes.

Sandeep Mukherjee, principal advisor of the Darjeeling Tea Association, says that a day's loss in this period amounts to a loss of over 1 per cent of the year's annual revenue. "In the second flush season, which starts in May and ends in June, these estates produce over 20 per cent of the annual Darjeeling tea. In terms of quantity, the season amounts to 40 per cent of the year's revenue," says Mukherjee, who helped prepare Kanoria's estimates.

Krishan Katiyal, Chairman of the renowned tea broker J Thomas and Co, says he is concerned about the hit. "The produce from the second flush helps Darjeeling tea keep its head above the water. With this blow, the survival of several estates is uncertain. The recovery will take three and a half weeks. How will they make ends meet?" says Katiyal.

There are over 57,000 workers in the estates. And this is the time when wages are fixed. With the losses staggering, gardens will be incapacitated to give them good wages. Traders say that the only way they can see ahead is to appeal to tea workers union leaders, most of whom remained unavailable.

Another problem that Darjeeling tea faces is the yield of Nepal tea, which is growing to be a prominent alternative. Nepal's yield has now risen to over 5 million kgs.

"Export commitments were made. And now with no yield, we will be giving Nepal the platform on a platter," says Kanoria.

He says that it is a sad place to be. "But, the hills call out to us. That's why Darjeeling tea has overcome several challenges over the years. One can only hope now."