Amarnath: Kashmir’s moment of truth

Over the past 27 years, the people of Kashmir have seen it all. Innocents killed by terrorists, politicians killed for being anti-terrorism or pro-India, officers and personnel of the Army and paramilitary forces martyred by terrorists, houses, shops and public places, including places of worship bombed. Terrorists have also been eliminated as have innocent Kashmiris, by either the terrorists or security forces.

But, every terrorist attack, every killing would be followed by a period of relative peace, which would last only until the next incident.

The Valley was always in a stalemate. Nobody knows when, if ever, a permanent solution to end the cycle of violence will be found. But, in between all the killings and deaths, life as usual continued to plod on in the death-ravaged streets of the Valley.

But since Monday evening, when terrorists sprayed bullets on a bus carrying Amarnath yatris, killing seven, including six women, and injuring many others, everyone agrees things will never be the same again.

“We will never lead a normal life from now on,” says Ghulam Mohammad Pincho, who looked on in horror as terrorists sprayed bullets at the bus. 

The 65-year-old poultry seller was shutting his shop near Batengoo in South Kashmir’s Anantnag district when he heard two loud bangs. “I thought they were firecrackers. But soon I realised it was gunshots. I thought it was an attack on the nearby security camp. I lay on the ground, and saw two buses pass by,” he tells DNA.

Showkat Ahmad Laway, another eyewitness, chose to flee, leaving his grocery shop unattended, when he heard the first shots. “I was terrified… I still am. We don’t know what lies ahead,” he says, almost fearful his words may be prophetic.

Apprehensions about the potential fallout of Monday’s attack on the Jammu-Srinagar highway run strong. Around a dozen shops, located along the highway that connects Kashmir to the rest of India, are shut. Villagers are choosing to stay indoors. The sense that the dastardly act has brought Kashmir — battling the scourge of terrorism for 27 years — to a critical crossroads is palpable. 

This is the first major attack, since 2006, on the yatris of the annual pilgrimage that brings thousands to the Amarnath cave every year. In 2000, terrorists had killed 30 people in Pahalgam.

Two hours after Monday’s attack, security forces began search operations. “Our gate started buzzing. We didn’t open it, but they jumped over it… Instead of going after terrorists and recording our statements, they beat us and ransacked our house,” alleges Shahzada, wife of a local shopkeeper. At his house, poultry seller Pincho also points towards broken windows, ransacked homes and scattered household items. He says, “We are ready to cooperate with investigators. But they beat all residents without asking anything.” Villagers also allege that the police also took away some people.  

The police, however, deny the charges. “Some other agency may have visited the village. I have no idea, who vandalised their homes,” says Anantnag SSP Altaf Khan, whose office is just a kilometre from the attack site.

South Kashmir DIG SP Pani, head of the Special Investigation Team constituted to probe the attack, admits that thrashing people is not the right way to conduct investigations. He promises to look into the allegations. 

Near the DIG’s office, tea-stall owner Abdul Rashid saw the valiant bus driver bringing his passengers to safety in inky darkness and through a hail of bullets. “They were all screaming. The DIG office security took control of the bullet-riddled bus. Initially, we helped passengers — families, businessmen and barefoot ascetics. But as more forces started pouring in, we got scared, closed shops and left,” he says. The bus, carrying passengers mostly from Gujarat and Maharashtra, was returning to Jammu from the cave shrine of Lord Shiva, located 12,756 ft above sea level.  

Politicians are equally apprehensive. As J&K Chief Minister Mehbooba Mufti and her cabinet colleagues drove to Anantnag, potential repercussions of the attack were on her mind. “I feared a backlash against Kashmiri students and a Hindu-Muslim tension outside Kashmir,” she told DNA. TV visuals of her apologizing to the survivors were galore. She cried and hugged the injured, reviving the signature actions that were central to her campaign while building the PDP in Kashmir. Even separatist leaders, who challenge India’s sovereignty over Kashmir, have strongly condemned the killings. 

The choice of the place where the attack was carried out is baffling. On one side, there are the headquarters of the Rashtriya Rifles’s First Brigade. On the other side, is a camp of the Special Operations Group, J&K police’s anti-insurgency force. A stone’s throw from the spot are the offices of South Kashmir’s DIG and Anantnag’s SSP. The deputy commissioner’s residence is also nearby. 

The attack happened on the highway, which straddles Batengoo village and the Jhelum river, only 50 km from J&K summer capital Srinagar. Many in the village saw the shooting. A 40-year-old says he saw three cars pass by. “From one car — perhaps a grey Maruti Alto — two men were firing. I guess, they were militants… we’re praying to the almighty for peace,” he says, also contradicting police claims that the attackers rode motorcycles.

Faith unshaken

Since July 11, when the bus was attacked, 40,161 pilgrims have visited the shrine 
Between June 29 and July 14, the total number was 1,86,853
By August 7, when the yatra ends, the number is likely to cross the 3 lakh mark 

Terror timeline

2017
7 killed in yatri bus attack

2006
5 pilgrims killed during the yatra

2002
Terrorists attack a yatra base camp

2001
A militant hurled a grenade into a camp near the shrine,  opened fire 
killing 13 people

2000
30 yatris killed and several injured

1994
A sadhu found hanging from a tree in Pahalgam