Recreating the grandiose of Mughal era

Being in the fashion industry for over two decades, the label AL (Ashima Leena) is now synonymous with impeccable hand embroideries and elegant bridal wear. The sister-in-law duo borrows inspiration from the rich heritage, art and design of Indian culture, and their creations are a reflection of the royal Indian costumes of the 18th century. They combine Indian craftsmanship with innovative western silhouettes to create a distinctive and contemporary look. The label recently launched their latest collection ‘Mehr-un-Nissa’, inspired by Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s beloved queen, Mehr-un-Nissa.

Leena Singh talks to Metrolife about the collection and its inspiration.

Excerpts:

What is your latest collection all about?

India has always been culturally rich and there is so much to take inspiration from, especially from the Mughal era, be it their architecture, apparels or ornaments. Their luxurious styles, elaborate patterns, with very detailed and intricate embroidery created a very classic look. Thinking of history, Mughal aesthetics come naturally to my mind. Movies like Mughal-e- Azam, Pakeezah and Umrao Jaan left an impact on my mind. And that was my inspiration for ‘Mehr-un-Nissa’.

What kind of technique have you used?

We have tried to recreate a sense of Mughal royalty without relying upon redundant elements. Class and innovation are paramount to our aesthetics. Antique textile crafting weaves a narrative of juxtaposition. Richly adorned brocades are used in subtle shades. Pastels and shimmering hues of gold are abound, contrasted with royal odhnis of unfettered colour akin to fuchsia, peacock green, and midnight blue.

How has your journey in the industry been?

I never thought I will be a designer. But when I entered into the fashion world, I tried being true to myself. Though my journey has had its share of ups and downs but coming up with newer designs and newer collection is what keeps me motivated.

How did you get into this field?

I was practising law, but in those days it was not easy for a girl to continue with law as a profession. It was a long journey for me which made it difficult to pursue law. However, I have been always been inclined towards creativity. As a child, I was always fond of wearing beautiful frocks and accessories. Therefore, you can say designing was always inborn in me, which I realised much later.

What is your idea of fashion?

Fashion for me is style in every facet of life. Women who wear Ashima Leena are those who not only believe in a timeless classic fashion, but also in sophistication and elegance.

What inspires you?

We have evolved in a great way by getting a reflection of the Mughal era in our collection from season to season. Our signature designing is very close to it. We always use rich fabrics like silks and brocades, the silhouettes like farshi pyjamas and rich embroideries like zardozi and salma sitara which truly symbolise Mughal inspiration in every outfit we create.

What do you think about the future of Indian fashion industry?

Textiles and crafts are the backbone of fashion industry and India is very rich in its textiles, culture and craftsmanship. Therefore, future of Indian fashion industry is very bright.

What are you working on next?

I am very close to the nature and that will be evident in my new SS’17 collection “romance of the florals” which I would be showcasing at Amazon India Fashion week.

Any fashion tip for the upcoming wedding season?

Brides should maintain pure fashion and not mix too many things up.

Any advice to the newbies?

Stay original.