'Bhangarh isn't for the faint-hearted'

Situated on a hillside in the deserted town of Bhangarh, Rajasthan; the fort is protected by three successive fortifications. Bhangarh is a ruined town between Jaipur and Alwar in Rajasthan and is located at the edge of Sariska Tiger Reserve.

It is a six hour drive from Delhi ranging about 300 kms. Bhangarh fort is a major tourist attraction and is said to be one of the most haunted sites in the world. The town was established in 1613 by King Madho Singh, son of great Mughal general, Man Singh of Amber.

Bhangarh was abandoned soon after being built and supposedly after it was cursed by a magician. According to legend, the city of Bhangarh was cursed by Guru Balu Nath, sanctioned the construction of the town on one condition, “The moment the shadows of your palaces touch me, the city shall be no more!”.

 In ignorance Ajab Singh, the grandson of Madho Singh, raised the palace to such a height that the shadow reached the forbidden place. His prophecy became true as predicted and the whole town was devastated. The samadhi where Guru Balu Nath is said to lie is still there. Local villagers say that whenever a house is built there its roof collapses.

Recalling another popular myth, Ranjan Singh, a city based entrepreneur says, “ Is related to the Princess of Bhangarh, Ratnavati. She was believed to be the jewel of Rajasthan. In the area lived a tantrik, a magician well versed in the occult, called Singhia, who was in love with the princess but knew that the match was impossible.”    He adds, “One day Singhia saw the princess' maid in the market. Folk lore has it that he used his black magic on the oil she was purchasing so that upon touching it the princess would surrender herself to him.”

 The princess, however, seeing the tantric cast a spell on the oil, foiled his plan by spilling the entire magic oil on the ground. As the oil struck the ground it turned into a boulder, which crushed Singhia, says the legend. In his dying moments the magician cursed the palace with the death of all who dwelt in it. The next year there was a battle between Bhangarh and Ajabgarh in which Princess Ratnavati perished. Legend says that there are ghosts of Singhia and other locals in Bhangarh Fort.

A signboard posted by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India), too specifies the instructions, “Entering the borders of Bhangarh before sunrise and after sunset is strictly prohibited. Legal action would be taken against anybody who does not follow these instructions”. People say that nobody who stayed there after dark ever returned.

The nearest town to put up at is Sariska, comprising The Sariska Palace and Sariska Tiger Heaven Resort. Jeep safaris are available from the resorts to explore Bhangarh via Sariska Tiger Reserve in the Aravalli range. Recently, we went to Sariska and we decided to visit Bhangarh fort as well. The road from Sariska to Bhangarh is awe inspiring, the Aravalli range on either side with a canopy of dazzling red flowers. It was a treat for the eyes and soul. 

Despite the passage of time, the Rani Ratnawati myth continues to fascinate everyone. Many claim to have witnessed paranormal activities in the area; some have ‘heard’ sounds of music and the tinkling of anklets.

Many tourists who take photographs inside the ruins find weird colour spots in the pictures. Is all this imagined or a ploy to draw in tourists? Whatever the truth, a visit to Bhangarh isn't for the faint-hearted.

As told by Ranjan Singh, a businessman from New Delhi to Mayank Verma