JOIN USDelhi’s landscape is dotted with historical ruins – some known and some still hidden from the public eye.
Especially in the outskirts - forested and semi-rural areas - one could find gems of historical structures, significant not only for their stories but also their unique architecture.
Travelling along the Mehrauli-Palam road, next to a village called Malakpur Kohli, you will find the Sultan Garhi tomb. A large mausoleum located in a desolate part of Delhi is sure to baffle you, but what adds further to the mystery is its strange golden hue - unlike the red sandstone of most monuments, and unusual domes - a cross between a temple and a mosque.
History says that this is the resting place of Nasiru’d-Din Mahmud – the eldest son of Iltutmish, the 3rd sultan in the Slave dynasty. Nasir was the favourite son of Iltutmish. He was once sent to East India to fight a revolt by the local ruler Izaz. Nasir fought him in an epic battle at Lakhnauti (now Gaur district of Bengal) and defeated Izaz. Iltutmish made him the governor of that area and titled him ‘Malik-us-Sharq’ meaning ‘king of the East.’
Nasir, however, couldn’t enjoy the fruits of his victory for long. In 1228 AD, he was gripped by an unknown disease and died. Iltutmish, overcome by grief, decided to build a mausoleum for him. Historian Sohail Hashmi informs us, “An unfortunate series of incidents marked the Slave dynasty rule after Iltutmish’s death in 1236. His younger son Rukn ud din grabbed power but was assassinated in a year. Daughter Razia took over but faced disapproval, being a woman, and had to wage a war against governor of Bhatinda, Malik Altunia. Malik defeated and married her eventually.”
“Iltutmish’s youngest son Muizuddin Bahram Shah, in the meantime, declared rebellion in Delhi, and Razia and Malik together fought against him. Both were killed and Bahram assumed throne. As fate would have it, Bahram was also murdered soon and that marked the end of the Slave dynasty.”
Since none of Nasir’s siblings shared their father’s enthusiasm in building this mausoleum, it is suspected that it remained incomplete. The same reflects in its architecture as well.
The grave is situated in an underground cave (meaning garhi in Hindi, hence the name, Sultan Garhi) and covered by a concrete platform. There are stairs to the platform but they do not lead anywhere; therefore, the suspicion of it being an unfinished work. The cave is then surrounded by fortress like pointed pillars and walls.
What is interesting about the decorations on the pillars and wall is that they visibly resemble temple architecture. The western marble mihrab has lotus petals-like frame and a beautiful – as seen in temples only. There is also surprisingly a yoni patta (the symbol of Hindu Goddess Parvati) at the feet of the mihrab.
Hashmi says, “Sultan Garhi was the first Muslim mausoleum in India, that is, excluding Qutub-ud-Din’s tomb in Lahore. So when the Muslim rulers asked the local Hindu masons to build this tomb, they depicted relics from their own faith. Hence it resembles a cross of both styles of architectural design.”
No one knows when prince Nasir became a sufi baba for the locals. A mela – comprising both Hindus and Muslims - gathers on Thursdays to pray to him. Milk, sweets and chana-gud is offered. Effectively, not only the architecture but also devotees to Sultan Garhi have come to represent the religious syncretism of our country.