Slice of nostalgia

The much-hyped Chinese breakfast at Tiretti Bazaar is poor excuse for a cockcrow expedition to the city's old China Town. Nowadays, it merely survives on conjecture. But later in the day, make that trip to the area anyway for a sumptuous meal at nearby Tung Nam-a no-frills, family-run Chinese eating house on Chatawallah Gully, behind Poddar Court.

Comfort Food: The setting is decidedly shabby but don't let that deter you, for the place serves up some of the best Cantonese-style food in the city. "What we serve here are treasured family recipes. It's the kind of food you could expect to eat in a Chinese home in Kolkata," says Susan Hsieh, 54, who now runs the place along with husband Michael, 58. In the kitchen to the right you are likely to spot members of the Hsieh family supervising bubbling pots of meaty broth or working the wok.

Known for its nostalgia-inducing flavours, the establishment is, in fact, relatively new having opened its doors only in 2001. Ever since, Tung Nam has quietly built a strong reputation and a bloc of staunch loyalists on the strength of unpretentious food, generous portions and reasonable prices.

Photo: Indrajit Lahiri

Plate Full: Popular staples like the mei-foons and the Manchurians in place, the menu packs in a few unique numbers like shreds of chicken or pork simmered with salt-pickled mustard greens in a flavourful broth, or cooked with button mushrooms and chunks of tofu in subtly flavoured gravy. Tung Nam's signature Hamei sauce (you could take your pick from chicken, pork, fish or shrimp balls in this tear-jerking sauce) is a closely guarded recipe, which allegedly gets its unique flavour from a generous dose of fermented shrimp paste-a definite crowd-puller. The wantons here- silken parcels of supple dough, generously stuffed with subtly seasoned mince are easily among the best picks. They also come nestled with mustard greens in steaming bowls of clear soup.

All-time Favourite: The place is especially popular with porkenthusiasts who drop in for platefuls of chilli pork (often dubbed the best in town) or the fiery pork in hamei sauce, a bestseller. Besides, this is one of the few places in town that has kaptai (pig offal) on the menu. Those in the know, however, call days in advance to request specialties like the Char Siu Pork. Or ask one of the Hseihs for suggestions and they might just toss up an off-the-menu gem for you.

At 24, Chatawallah Gully, Tiretti, Kolkata; Meal For Two Rs 500; Time 12 noon to 3 p.m. (lunch) and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. (dinner)