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The watchmaker's jeweller

Sharing the inventive spirit of the 182 year maison, Daniel Riedo from Jaeger Lecoulture sheds light on the design and gemsetting skills of the LE Sentier based technical power house.

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Why did you choose to do this watch?
Jaeger-LeCoultre has over 100 years of expertise in miniaturisation. Since its launch in 2012, the Rendez-Vous has become an important part of our collection. It was therefore an incredible opportunity to marry the two and create this exceptional piece.

Explain the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches
Gem setting is one of the many arts that Jaeger-LeCoultre keeps alive in-house; its dedicated workshop is manned by more than 20 gemsetters. This is where exceptional watchmaking meets fine jewellery in sublime timepieces paved with stones. Alongside the brands expertise in traditional gemsetting, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the name behind two unique techniques; snow setting and rock setting. The first, which was created by Jaeger-LeCoultre and used in the Rendezvous Ivy secret, creates the effect of a sparkling sun on snow. To achieve this, the gem setters of the Manufacture juxtapose diamonds of different diameters, leaving the minimum of metal exposed, thus exclusively enhancing the beauty of the diamonds; no two snow-set watches are ever the same.

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Biggest challenge
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a 182 year old manufacturer, with the spirit of invention well and alive. Every day we are thankful to our founders and the people after them who created this Maison. Our main challenge is to keep on building this place and to deliver the spirit of invention to our audience while staying true to our heritage.

The inspiration behind the watch
This exceptional piece is reminiscent of the aesthetics of a timepiece that belongs to Jae ger-LeCoultre's heritage. When this model was created in the 1960s, its sumptuous gemsetting made a big impression on people. It now returns as part of the Rendez-Vous collection, driven by a more distinctly graphic intent than the original watch. Rendez-Vous Ivy Secret strikes a balance between the charm of an antique collector's jewellery and the expression of a contemporary collection.

Staying true to the characteristics that make the Rendez-Vous Collection unique, the Ivy Secret is a perfect marriage between classic aesthetics observed on the dial; a watch making heart, wherein the Ivy beats to the rhythm of a tiny movement which required the expertise of over 100 years of miniaturisation by Jaeger-LeCoultre; and most proudly the Metiers Rares (rare handcrafts). This can be observed in the dainty grain setting on the dial and the ivy leaves which are engraved and hand painted, creating a realistic and yet delightfully poetic result. The Ivy's dial is concealed like a well-kept secret by a slightly domed cover, set with three types of diamonds-brilliant, baguette and marquise cut. These are set to outline the shape of a flower that the glass appears to have captured and frozen in endless beauty.

How difficult is it to strike a balance between being niche and showing growth?
The brand's inventiveness and heritage characterises Jaeger-LeCoultre. These aren't just meaningless platitudes; both qualities are clearly demonstrated by our heritage gallery. Being the reference in watchmaking, the level of independence we enjoy in our production facilities also sets us apart from other brands who struggle to find suppliers for their parts. Our main current challenge is linked to our growth and meeting our demand. The market has clearly expressed a desire to see more of our high complications. So, we are aiming to increase our production capacity of these by focusing on training.

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Are these watches investments, a love of art, or heirlooms?
Creating over 1,300 calibres and 400 patents is a clear testament to the uniqueness of many of our timepieces. Combined with the freedom of creation our watchmakers enjoy and being a fully integrated manufacture means that all three are true. For the latter, our Maison puts a lot of care and work into the effective operation of our after sales services. All timepieces should be checked regularly. During this service, the worn components will be replaced and oils changed. Our customers can also enjoy the change of the straps and the personalisation of their watch as part of this periodical check. For example, a client can engrave the back of his Reverso to make the watch unique.

Your idea of luxury
Luxury stems from individual dreams and desires. Fulfilling these comes with high expectations and therefore customers have a legitimate expectancy of brands with a past, a history in watchmaking with, of course, true mechanical movements. With over 180 years of true watchmaking and constant innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre has established itself as a reference in fine watchmaking.

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Grappoli
DE GRISOGONO

Neither a gemmologist nor a designer, Gruosi possesses insatiable curiosity, an acute aesthetic sensibility, and a true passion for gemstones. Through his brand de Grisogono, Fawaz brings an exquisite new jewelled timepiece made of playful grapes of gems. The Grappoli is set in an arrangement of shades to form a lively composition with white diamonds, emeralds, and amethysts, orange or blue sapphires, which make a subtle snow set jewelling. The tone on tone cut stones and the grapes corolla smoothly sits on the wrist.

The 56 briolette-cut apatites: 51.9 carats and 14 briolette-cut white diamonds: 12.3 carats, which have been sown on the case, take the shape of a delicate flower and move subtly to the rhythm of the wrist sporting it. Each of the Grappoli pieces is hand-made; with over 30 hours per watch required to set each stone after the other. The dial snow set with 994 brilliant-cut Paraiba tourmalines: 13.1 carats. Around 1000 brilliant-cut stones are hand-set by the de Grisogono craftsmen on each piece. The snow setting on the dial enhances the brightness and colour variation and 70 moving briolette-cut stones are sewed on the case. Each arrangement is different, making each Grappoli timepiece completely unique.

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Lierre de lumiere
BOUCHERON

Inspired by the City of Light, Boucheron pays tribute to its origins: the Maison's beginning at the Palais-Royal and the fascination for nature in the city. At the time when the fashion for jardins a la francaise was all the rage, Frederic Boucheron admired the wild ivy that grew spontaneously under the arches of the Palais-Royal. With the Lierre de Lumiere creation, Boucheron celebrates nature. Through its gold sculpted ivy leaves that are openworked and set with 1223 diamonds, the Lierre de Lumiere creation reveals its secret timepiece. There is a bezel set diamond on the central leaf that elevates itself, revealing the dial of the watch. Approximately 650 hours of work goes into making of this cuff-watch that swirls around the wrist.

Sapphire and diamond beaded tassel secret watch
GRAFF

Graff gives a whole new meaning to wearing a timekeeper. This sapphire and diamond beaded tassel secret watch is an enchanting jewel and a true showcase of such inspirational craftsmanship. This unique piece of transformable jewels incorporates over 330 carats of sapphires and 40 carats of diamonds, which can be worn three ways: as a single piece, individual brooches, or as a single brooch with a mesmerising tassel.

Commenting on the sapphire and diamond secret watch, Anne-Eva Geffroy, Design Director at Graff Diamonds said, "For me, gemstone beads embody fluidity and movement and so I created a design for a piece with row upon row of draped sapphires and diamonds, which lead the eye towards a dynamic three-dimensional tassel. The inclusion of a secret watch, delicately suspended from a platinum chain is highly unique, adding a further element of surprise and intrigue."

The Fascination
GRAFF

A true work of art, The Fascination incorporates 152.96 carats of the very finest white diamonds. At the heart of the piece lies an exquisitely rare, 38.13-carat D Flawless pear shape diamond, cut and polished by Graff. An interchangeable element, this magnificent diamond can be worn as the centrepiece of a highly sculptural bracelet or placed into a bespoke shank and worn as a ring. Founder and Chairman of Graff Diamonds, Laurence Graff played an integral role in the design and creation of The Fascination, which demonstrates the close collaboration between Graff 's London and Swiss ateliers.

Commenting on it he said, "We are inspired by the rarest and most precious diamonds. Their influence is evident throughout everything we do. The Fascination is an outstanding piece, carefully crafted so it can be worn in a number of different ways, adding a touch of magic to the jewel. It perfectly encapsulates the ethos of the business, from sourcing the finest diamonds, uncovering their potential through cutting and polishing, and meticulous craftsmanship resulting in the creation of the most fabulous jewels in the world.

Price on request for all watches

Price on request for all watches