The golden mile of tailors

There have been many 'new waves' on Savile Row. There was Tommy Nutter in the 1960s. There was the troika of Richard James, Ozwald Boateng and Timothy Everest in the 1990s. But since then, most new boys on the block haven't caused much more than a ripple, perhaps better seen as part of the rising tide of menswear in general. Now, 15 years into the twenty-first century, we may be seeing the next new wave.

Much of it is a result of buy-outs. Huntsman was sold to a hedge fund duo in 2013; E Tautz was launched off the back of tailor Norton & Sons, which was bought by entrepreneur Patrick Grant; Chinese company Li & Fung ultimately owns four brands on Savile Row, Hardy Amies, Kilgour, Kent & Curwen and Gieves & Hawkes, even if they are organisationally split into separate groups.

Each buy-out has led to a change in direction, largely leading to more or better ready-to-wear garments. All have found that there is still money in the rarefied world of bespoke tailoring.

The most compelling of these launches are Kilgour, with its monotone minimalism; Gieves & Hawkes, destined to become the Britsh Brioni; Hardy Amies, with its more youthful aesthetic; the fashion-forward E Tautz; and Thom Sweeney, whose sophisticated tailoring and relatively small size make it the dark horse.

All have opened or refurbished stores in the past year. All offer the modern man a different view of himself and his aspirations.

1 | Gieves & Hawkes
Gieves & Hawkes has sat in a stately mess at the head of Savile Row for many years. Despite a wonderful location, and a quietly wonderful bespoke department, the brand consistently failed to get its ready-to-wear clothing right. Too much, too cheap, too dull. Cue the entry of creative director Jason Basmajian from Italian giants Brioni.

In just a couple of seasons Basmajian has transformed the image of Gieves & Hawkes, with sharp, sophisticated tailoring and subtle combinations. The big windows looking out onto Burlington Gardens contain grey suits with woolen shirts and charcoal ties; round the corner, it's donegal suits and deep, mossy green coats. The interior is marble and bronze, and downstairs there is a new energy to the bespoke tailors, who are catering to some of the world's most creative personalities. Starting price bespoke suit 4,500 www.gievesandhawkes.com

2 | Kilgour
You could be forgiven for thinking you'd stepped back in time when you enter Kilgour, at 5 Savile Row. Creative head Carlo Brandelli has been here before, launching an innovative tailoring line in 2003 that found many young converts. It was modernist, rendered largely in navy, white and charcoal, with one-button jackets and flashes of white piping. Brandelli left after a disagreement with the owners, but was brought back in 2013 when the ownership changed again. It was a welcome return for his legions of fans, and the partial collections we have been shown this far bode well: subtle changes in lapel shapes, hidden buttons and tailored jersey. Autumn/Winter 2015 will be the fullest expression of Brandelli's new look, and we can't wait. Starting price bespoke suit 5,500 http://kilgour.com

3 | E Tautz
Ladies' favourite Patrick Grant opened his first store under the E Tautz brand last year on Duke Street; an expansion of the brand that had existed largely as wholesale, under the banner of the Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons that Grant bought back in 2005.

The Tautz take on menswear is an interesting one, bridging the worlds of catwalk fashion and heritage manufacturing. Traditional shetland sweaters are made in bright yellows and greens; coats are enlarged to grand proportions and rendered in block patterns, yet retain functional aspects like waterproofing. His wide-leg chinos have been a best-seller, while the tailoring is quietly growing in popularity. Starting price Jacket: 690; Trousers: 350 www.etautz.com

4 | Hardy Amies
Of all the brands playing off their roots, Hardy Amies is probably the one that has wandered furthest. Although Hardy Amies, the man known as the couturier to the Queen, was the first to launch ready-to-wear menswear, it had nothing in common with the youth-oriented brand now occupying 8 Savile Row.

Creative director Mehmet Ali pairs New Balance trainers with much of his tailoring -certainly that facing out onto the dapper gents of the Row. They come with short raincoats, knitted waistcoats and woollen ties. It's more accessible to most 20-something guys, but time will tell whether many of them stroll down Savile Row in search of their clothing. Starting price bespoke suit 2,200

5 Thom Sweeney
Last but certainly not least is Thom Sweeney, the bespoke tailor that opened a new readymade and made-to-measure shop on Bruton Place last year. Founders Luke Sweeney and Thom Whiddett came from Timothy Everest, creating a nice generational pattern to the new waves on or around Savile Row.

The new shop is beautifully appointed, reflecting the subtle colouration and exquisite make of the suiting and accessories. Thom and Luke as tailors were particularly known for their U-shape waistcoat, which dressed many a celebrity on TV. But the aesthetic has grown and expanded, and now offers a quiet, confident alternative to the likes of Tautz and Kilgour. Starting price bespoke suit 2,555 https://www.thomsweeney.co.uk