In the world of independent watchmakers, customisation is key
Most of the independents produce anywhere between 30 to 1,500 watches a year. Being small and integrated has its advantages.
While Rolex stands as the most sought after luxury Swiss watch brand in the world, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, the Swiss luxury watchmakers, contour the 'holy-trinity' in the world of Haute Horlogerie, not necessarily in that order. While many of the older brands rely on their heritage to attract customers, both old and new, there are others who are bending the rules. For example, a brand like Audemars Piguet produces only 40,000 watches annually and while that seems exclusive at first glance, niche brands like Roger W Smith, a watchmaker based out of Isle of Man, handcrafts only 10 watches a year, challenging the notion of exclusivity. This is not the only independent watchmaker who is now pursued by the global fraternity of collectors as individualistic watch brands come into their own and carve a niche for themselves.
In fact, in recent years, independents like MB&F, Armin Strom, DeBethune, Vianey Halter, Greubel Forsey, Andreas Strehler, Antoine Preziuso, Lang & Heyne and several others are the new tsars of exclusivity. Most of the independents produce anywhere between 30 to 1,500 watches a year. Being small and integrated has its advantages and for most of them, customisation is key. Though a few watches produced by the independents surpass the average commercial luxury watch in pricing, the innovations in concept and production definitely surpass the collectible value.
The HM7 Aquapod by MB&F is an example of this. Launched in January this year, this 66-piece edition in 18-carat 5N+ red gold with a black bezel is conceptualised as more of an art form that tells time than a luxury wrist utility. HM7 Aquapod began its gestation as a horological jelly fish, and the architecture of its engine is appropriately biomorphic. The idea for an aquatic watch originated from MB&F founder Maximilian Busser's memories of family beach holidays, which included an encounter with a jelly fish. While the encounter may have been minor, the seed it planted in Busser's brain for a three-dimensional timepiece powered by tentacles was anything but. Where jelly fish have a radially symmetric ring of neurons for a brain, Aquapod has radially symmetric rings displaying hours and minutes. This is a diving watch which is not works as performance art.
While the market dynamics in 2017 dictate that most people seek more value from their buys, even in the luxury segment, we are also seeing a new wave of horologically-inclined, self-taught individuals, who have taken the time to educate themselves about timepieces. The lesser-known brands, who incidentally have been around for over a century, are today becoming 'the' watches to wear, especially in emerging markets, including India, because of their commercial anonymity. For individuals looking for a quality Swiss watch with a mechanical complication that is not priced over the top, niche brands rule. Similarly, Nomos, is one of the greatest success stories in the watch industry. The brand has made a mark for itself despite being a small manufacturer in the sea of Swiss watch giants. As Asia positions itself as top zone for consuming luxury watches, it is these independent watch makers who are being highly sought.