Junichi Abe dove headfirst into patchwork and Americana this season, subverting a lineup of traditional silhouettes with unconventional decorative elements. A constellation of geometric appliqués around the pockets of some coats recalled Kandinsky, while multiple furs were applied asymmetrically as piping around pockets or to create two-tone collars. Broad plaids and Native American-inspired prints brought in a Western bent, while the blazers and cropped jackets gave off more of an Ivy League vibe — a theme driven home by a Madras patchwork blazer.
The tailoring was crisper and closer to the body than in Abe’s last collection for Kolor, helping to keep the overall effect sleek despite a heavy dose of ornamentalism. Decorative elements were asymmetrical but trended toward balance.
Gray wool sleeves were stitched onto one Patagonia-esque jacket with a body in eggplant nylon and cream fleece. Color-blocked sweaters reinforced the season’s palette of teal, purple, chocolate and gray — as did the tufts of multicolored fur on sandals.
A cropped pony-hair jacket departed from the patchwork theme but wasn’t short on texture — it looked almost slippery under the runway lights.