Scent for a lady - the perfect perfume gift

Dublin-based expert perfumier, Marija Aslimoska happily doles out advice to customers looking for that signature fragrance, and part of the customer satisfaction she offers is a small vial of what they have bought, to test it out before they tear open the wrapping paper. So what does she recommend for those lost in a pre-Christmas panic and proclaiming to have a blocked nose?

Choosing a fine fragrance and Eau de Parfum (EDP) is all about the notes, the music it creates, the colours you see, and how it makes you feel when you close your eyes. I enjoy a masterclass at the Westbury Hotel where Marija has two stores - Parfumarija, which she opened three years ago, and the new Santa Maria Novella store, which is the first Irish branch of the iconic Italian apothecary from Florence.

With 80 difference fragrances at home, and another 220 in her store, Marija is, I have to say, very democratic in offering advice about brands you can find in specialist stores, High Street department stores, and local pharmacies.

If you are buying for a professional career woman, you do not want a fragrance that is "too loud," Marija cautions. "You don't want to be coming into an office where everyone knows that you have arrived with your fragrance. I would suggest Oranges and Lemons by James Heeley (€125, 100ml, Parfumarija) which is a light, fresh cologne.

"Vetiver-based fragrances are good too and until recently, it was a masculine note. I've found that vetiver is a woody note that women adore, and around the time that designer Yves Saint Laurent started putting women into suits, women started wearing Vetiver by Guerlain. I think this combination of a woman in a suit and wearing a vetiver-based fragrance creates a magic."

With this in mind, Marija points to Autoportrait by Olfactive Studio (€89, 50ml) and Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle (€135, 50ml, both available from Parfumarija).

"I know a lot of women love Terre d'Hermes (€93, 100ml, Brown Thomas) which was conceived in 2006 by Jean-Claude Ellena. It is mostly sold to men these days, but I do not see a problem in it being sold for a woman in a suit."

However, Marija cautions against choosing an overly sweet fragrance for an office where you are surrounded by people. "I think, in an office space you want to give the impression of being well groomed, well looked after. You smell clean but you are not imposing yourself on other people to be noticed, because you supposedly have other qualities to be noticed for.

"In countries like Canada, before you enter offices, you see signs that it is forbidden to wear perfume. We all remember the times in the US when Poison by Dior was forbidden in certain restaurants just because some owners felt it was invading other people's space, and could be de-appetitising for other diners.

"It is a fragrance which has tuberose which is a note that you either love, or hate," says Marija.

"I think if women have the personality to carry off a sweet, amber fragrance, then go ahead and well done to you. For those who want something to wear after work, you could go for Lancôme's La Vie est Belle (€66 for 20ml and €86 for 40ml, Arnotts) which is very patouchli and gourmand with a burnt sugar note. Black Orchid by Tom Ford (€138, 100ml, Brown Thomas) is strong and diffuses a lot of patchouli, and has a note of caviar in it."

A busy mum herself with a two-year-old daughter, and another one on the way in two months, Marija says "for mums at home with kids, I would recommend Lumiere Blanche (Olfactive Studio, €89, 50ml, Parfumarija) which can be worn by both women and men.

"It has really beautiful notes. It's cold and it's warm, it's milky and spicy, all at the same time. The main note is sandalwood and it just creates an aura around you, so rather than being someone who wears a perfume, you just smell lovely," she adds.

"Hippy Rose by James Heeley (€125, 100ml, Parfumarija) is a rose scent, but it is not there to bewitch or to seduce you. One of the fragrances I love is Tobacco Toscano from Santa Maria Novella (€90, 100ml). It sounds like a big gun's perfume, but it's not. It's really soft like a white cloud, with a notion of tobacco and slight vanilla. During the day, it never imposes itself - even on you as the wearer - but when you want to smell it, it's always there for you."

Marija proclaims herself to be a big fan of Frederic Malle, a perfume brand which is stocked at her store and also at Brown Thomas, where it is one of the stars of the Marvel Room. Marija's personal favourite is L'eau d'Hiver (€120, 50ml) "which is so soft and warm, it really is like a cashmere scarf. The last thing you add before you leave the house, it gives you this warmth and it is loved by everyone."

One of the ironies about selecting fine fragrances is that people may say they don't like citrus or floral, but inevitably, that is what they go for at a sitting.

Marija explains how the perfume market "seems to be obsessed with leather and you will find leather scents with every fragrance brand. The Irish brand Meme has both French leather and Irish leather fragrances (they cost €190 for 75ml at Brown Thomas) and Louis Vuitton has just launched a fragrance range and they have a leather one," says Marija.

The Irish fragrance scene has been dominated by Jo Malone and of all the brand's fragrances, Marija admires Lime Basil and Mandarin (€109, 100ml, Brown Thomas). At an affordable price point, she points me to Tommy Hilfiger's Girl (€40, department stores), and from her dressing table, she introduces me to Eau Savage by Dior (€62.50-€89 at Debenhams), and Amber Narguile by Hermès (€210 for 100ml at Brown Thomas).

From the ever-expanding fragrance family at Estée Lauder, she praises Youth Dew as "beautiful".

She adds: "I have to say, 10 years ago, I would not have dreamt of saying it, but now I really appreciate what was done with Youth Dew (starts at €33 for 30ml) and Cinnabar (€64 for 50ml, both Arnotts) too is amazing and powerful."

Turning back the clocks, I raise the subject of Estée Lauder's White Linen (€66 for 50ml at Arnotts) which, at one time, was the fragrance du jour of half the country it seemed, and across all generations too. Marija says: "I never caught that fever and perhaps it was because I prefer a richer, deeper scent." For those looking for an affordable stocking-filler, Marija points to Hot Couture by Givenchy (€35.99 for 30ml at Boots).

On the subject of celebrity perfumes, Marija admits: "I'm currently changing my mind a lot. I have really the highest opinion of the fragrances that actress Sarah Jessica Parker has made. When she first came on the market with Lovely (€47.50 for 50ml at Boots), you could tell this was done with great care. Then she had Covet, and she has a new one which I've not had the chance to smell yet. I think Sarah Jessica actually put a lot of thought and love into her fragrances and it really comes across."

Another celebrity fragrance which caught Marija's attention came from supermodel Naomi Campbell. "Maybe I'm biased because when I was a teenager, that was the perfume I used and they are still amazing. You cannot find them in Ireland, but every time I'm on the Continent, I look out for them and you do find them sold in Germany and in Switzerland. Naomi was one of the first to introduce a celebrity perfume and it is big shame that Madonna's fragrance, Truth or Dare, is gone, because it was wonderful and made with great materials."

Another perfume loved by the High Street and local pharmacies was Moments, by Priscilla Presley. "Today it might be considered old fashioned because it had a big floral heart and now we are moving towards leathers, oud and incenses, but if anyone finds a bottle of Moments, please contact me. I've been searching on eBay, but they are so old, they probably have gone off.

"There is a little pharmacy in Donegal where I go to hunt down perfumes that have been discontinued. Emporio Armani made this cyclinder tube, Si or He, but they came out at one point in a white cylinder and when I see it, I buy all the stock."

Lanvin's Arpège was a big favourite in Ireland for years, but it's hard to find now. Marija helpfully points out that you will still find it in France and Germany. For a fragrance bound to catch a man's attention, Marija recommends Innuendo by Roja Dove (€295 for 50ml) or Leder 6 by J.F. Schwarzlose (€130 for 50ml) both available at her store.

On iconic brands, Marija says: "I think you almost have to spend time and educate yourself before you become a lover of the Chanel brand, which I am now. From their exclusive range, I love their No. 22 which really is a continuation of that theme in Chanel No. 5, with the beautiful Iris and the same too applies to La Pausa, also in the Les Exclusifs de Chanel range."

The run-up for Christmas will be busy for Marija, who comes originally from Macedonia and lives in Dublin with her husband and business partner, Brendan Coyle, and their daughter Hedi, named after his mum. Baby number two is also a girl, and she will be named Rose after Marija's mum.

I think Coco Chanel would have approved.

For under the Christmas tree

Acqua di Colonia, €75/ 100ml, Santa Maria Novella

Lancôme La Vie Est Belle L'Eau de Parfum

€66/20ml, €86/40ml, Arnotts

Tom Ford Black Orchid,

€138/100ml, Brown Thomas

Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger for Frederic Malle

Lumière Blanche Olfactive Studio, €89/ 50ml, Parfumarija

Chanel No. 22, €320/ 200ml, €175/75ml, Brown Thomas

Tommy Hilfiger GIRL, €40, Debenhams

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, €47.50/50ml, Boots

Leder 6 by J.F. Schwarzlose, €130/50ml, Parfumarija

Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin, €109/100ml, Brown Thomas