Steamy alchemy of desire

The good old chai is making its way into menus of those wanting to experiment with palates, from exotic Asian food to desserts
Chef Vicky Ratnani
Chef Vicky Ratnani

The good old chai is making its way into menus of those wanting to experiment with palates, from exotic Asian food to desserts

If you think it is wine alone that can be a good drink with your food, you are missing out on some simple pleasures of life. Laying on a spectrum, that ranges from lightest to most full-bodied, tea has drawn the attention of those who want to give their palate new experimental tastes.

Be it exotic Asian food or humble desserts, it compliments a meal in a more-than-extraordinary way. According to the Tea Association of Canada, “When it comes to appetizers, specifically light vegetables with delicate sauce, white tea is a good option, while with grilled vegetables, it is oolong tea. White tea also goes down well with an entre of light white fish and vegetable and a peach-based dessert.”

In India, tea as an accompaniment has not penetrated sections, and is limited to high-end gatherings. “Tea is a breakfast beverage in an average Indian family, and during rains, a must with hot pakoras. However, I would not hesitate to try out some combinations occasionally,” says Chandni Ghosh, a food lover in Kolkata.

A spokesperson of tea manufacturer Twinings UK enlists the basic characteristic of teas for a layman. Black tea has a robust flavour, green tea is earthy, white tea is gentle, oolong tea can vary. There are also fruit and scented teas.

A versatile drink, tea enhances the taste of food and vice versa. For those who opt for tea instead of wine, the drink is more a bridge from one course to another. Chef Vicky Ratnani says, “Spiced cottage cheese or chicken tastes wonderful with mint tea. Oolong tea and jasmine tea go nicely with grilled Oriental food. If you are into pastas and red meats, try them with classic Assam tea.”

Chef Mohana Krishnan
Chef Mohana Krishnan


When it comes to Indian meals, sip English Breakfast tea with your egg bhurji and aloo paratha. If you like a dessert before you hit the bed, nothing can match Earl Grey with lemon-flavoured cakes, rabdi, falooda and kulfi. Chef Sabyasachi Gorai Runa of food inn Lavaash at Saby in Delhi says, “A great combination is dark fermented pu-erh tea and mushrooms. The rich and earthy smell of pu-erh is an out-of-the-world feeling.”

But down south where coffee predominates, tea is still the choice for many. Mohanakrishnan, Corporate Chef of The Savera, says: “Nothing can beat Goli Bajje, chutney and a sip of hot and strong ginger tea. A traditional speciality from Dakshina Kannada, spongy bondas of maida with coconut, green chillies and ginger, overwhelmed by the aroma of ginger tea, is a perfect combination across all moods, especially during the monsoons.”


Making that perfect cup is not easy. It all boils down to brewing and boiling. Chef Michael Swamy explains, “It’s an art because sometimes the very difference of a degree (temperature) up or down can throw off the flavours of the tea during the making process. Having said that the making is as much as an art as drinking it.”

Today, the prospect of pairing teas with the plethora of global cuisine is opening up a world of possibilities. Many restaurants are working with tea companies to come up with new-age recipes and design menus incorporating tea. Who knew tea would become the next alchemy.

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