There are two ways, at least, to look at pairing wine with flavorful, even hot-spicy food. One way would be to be sure the wine itself is flavorful and aromatic so it’s not knocked out by the food. The other way is quite an opposite tack, and the one I prefer because it’s more flexible: be sure the wine is quiet, demur and humble so that the food’s flavors, aromas and textures can play off or be reflected by it, in the manner of gesso sealing a canvas so that the painter’s colors “bounce” into your eyes and don’t bleed into the fabric.
HERE’S THE DISH …
Mediterranean Red Lentil and Spinach Stew
Recipe from Shoshoni Yoga Retreat, Rollinsville
Heat 2 tablespoons ghee or clarified butter in saucepan. Add 1 finely chopped small onion; sauté until well browned and caramelized. Add 1 tablespoon ginger and 1 clove garlic, both minced; sauté for 2 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons each: paprika and ground cumin, coriander and cinnamon. Add 5 cups water, 2 cups peeled, diced butternut squash, 1 cup dry red lentils, 1 cup diced red bell pepper and 1 stalk thinly sliced celery. Simmer uncovered until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in 1 bag baby spinach, 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, 1/4 cup currants, 3 tablespoons low-salt soy sauce, 1 teaspoon cider vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and 1-2 teaspoons salt, to taste; let simmer just long enough for spinach to wilt.
AND PAIR IT WITH …
While working at a very large wine store in Chicago years ago, I recommended my sure-fire, go-to wine to a fellow for his BYOB date at an Indian restaurant, known for its spicy, even fiery, cuisine. He returned to me the next day, as if walking on his knees, pleading, his voice yearning like koi at their feeding: “I want more of that.” The wine is Portuguese Vinho Verde; low in alcohol, high in acidity, moderate of flavor, it is the mouse that roars at any food. Nothing bothers it (fat, salt, sugar, acid, chili heat); it enhances all things.
Contact Bill St John at bsjpost@gmail.com
