In the land of Lama

In the land of Lama
Our explorer discovers the McLeod Ganj market and much more.

McLeod Ganj is touched by Tibetan influences. The picturesque town is home to the Dalai Lama and has a distinct spiritual atmosphere. We walked through the small hill station in the early hours of the morning. Our route to the Dalai Lama’s house was through a bustling marketplace. The bazaar had an interesting mix of items on sale. The stalls displayed fresh oranges and apples, stacked neatly on top of each other. Leafy green vegetables and bright Himachal wild flowers were being sold in wicker baskets. Prayer wheels incense and framed portraits of the Dalai Lama were found in abundance. The aroma of thukpa and momos pervaded our immediate surroundings. We stopped at a tea shop owned by a young girl. She served us piping hot jasmine tea with a warm smile. We started talking and I discovered her family had migrated to India when the Chinese attacked Tibet. “We left everything behind,” she said with a hint of regret. “But we are grateful to India for helping the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan community.” I noticed that the tea shop had books kept on little wooden shelves. A small poster on the wall advertised a concert with a Tibetan vocalist, an Indian flutist and an Australian Djembe player. I observed that the tea shop was brimming with happy faces from every corner of the world. I was surprised to see the diversity of cultures coexisting in McLeod Ganj.

We continued walking through the curious town. We crossed an old book shop, which displayed several classics in an ornate glass window. I entered and picked up a copy of Seven years in Tibet. I noticed that the pages had markings and the book had someone’s name on it. I asked the store owner how he acquired the book. He said that his shop functioned on a unique system. All the books kept in it had been left behind by travellers who did not want to carry heavy loads. The store never ran out of supply because visitors came very frequently to drop off books. Again it was amazing to see the philanthropic mindset of the Himalayans. Instead of throwing away the old books, the shop owner had preserved them for other tourists to enjoy.

After an eventful morning, we finally arrived at the Dalai Lama’s abode. Outside the gates of the palatial structure I saw a number of foreign devotees. They were seated on yoga mats and their eyes were closed. All these visitors from different parts of the world were meditating together. It was astonishing to see the way their chests heaved in unison as they breathed in the pure Himalayan air.

I was touched to see how the Dalai Lama had brought all these people together. We learnt that his Holiness was not present in his home at the time of our visit. Yet despite his absence, his devotees could still feel a connection to him. I realised that although we live in a segregated world, there are still some traces of unity. In McLeod Ganj I was able to witness individuals from all walks of life living in harmony. Perhaps it is the magic of the Dalai Lama or maybe this is basic human nature, but all I could see around me was an integrated and accepting society. As I entered through the gates of the Dalai Lama’s home, I felt a tingle of hope. The Himalayas have shown me that people still have the ability to put aside their differences and come together. The insight I have gained on this journey has changed my perspective completely. All I have to do is listen.