It is that time of the year when festive traditions celebrate silk weaves and sari stores record maximum footfalls.
In its new, pro-active avatar, Co-optex has swung into action with the revival of antique sari designs. Revisiting timeless designs, the ‘Vintage Kanjeevaram’ collection weaves together the classic and the contemporary.
Kanchipuram pattu master weavers and designers S. Govindaraj and D. Narayanan open a window into their world. “We are paramparik weavers. Since childhood, the clack of the home loom has regulated the rhythm of our lives. As beginners, we learnt the basics of the three-shuttle korvai weaving, helping out after school hours. Gaining proficiency in weaving, we were gradually inducted into design, graduating from simple to complex concepts. We now have over 50 years of experience.”
“The USP of Kanchi handlooms is the korvai technique. It involves the joining of two different colours when the body ( udal ) meets the two borders. The second border can be attached only by an extra helper, in a painstaking, labour-intensive process. At the point where the udal is joined with the munthi ( pallu ) which carries a contrast colour, a technique called petni is used to create a narrow strip of double thickness, within which warp and weft colours merge to assume a shot hue. In all other weaves, even Arani pattu , this transition strip is woven as a single shade or in tie-and- dye,” they explain.
Kanchi’s ancient temples are an eternal font of inspiration. Motifs of flowers, vines, animals, birds and yalis are sourced from the intricate carvings on the pillars, walls and vimanasof the Kailasanatha, Ekambreswara, Varadaraja Perumal and Vaikunta Perumal temples. Udal motifs include the veldari , malli moggu, buttas and paaimadi (mat weave). The gandaberunda pakshi featured in the Mysore royal insignia, has recently staged a grand comeback. Borders vary from narrow to wide and include mubbhagam (3-part), Ganga-Jamuna (dual colour), Bavanchi and half and half grids. Border motifs incorporate the horse, elephant, peacock, swan, thuthiripoo , rudraksha and thazhampoo pettu . Imagination takes flight in the ‘Air India’ sari in which a sloping temple border grows taller, mirroring an aeroplane’s upward trajectory from take-off point, to land at two interchangeable pallus ! The lightweight Puduppavu weaves are Deepavali specials.
Three distinctive munthi patterns are the seeppu rekh, muthu seer and Rajaratna seer .
Brilliant single shades and iridescent shot hues mingle in a dazzling palette. Coinciding with the M.S. Subbulakshmi centenary celebrations is a gorgeous reproduction of the ‘M.S. Blue’ shade, bordered by red stripes framed between rows of miniature elephants and peacocks. An instant hit with working women, the lightweight ‘corporate wear’ series (Rs.4000 - Rs. 6000) uses stripes, checks and geometric patterns . The ‘zero zari’ saris, a favourite with minimalists, come with thread work.
Wedding saris have a unique vocabulary that abounds with symbolism. “Many communities from Karnataka, even today, insist that the muhurtam sari should carry a rettai pettu (double row) border to signify auspiciousness, with a preference for vermilion, green and yellow hues. For some, the kottadi checks are a must-have,” explains Narayanan. “The muthu kattam checks, resembling evenly spaced pearls, represent the harmonious relationship between the bride and groom. Similarly, the nine-yard koorai pudavai features the arai maadam (half-diamond, wall lamp niche ) pettu which appears uniform in front and reverse, representing the equality of husband and wife.
“The sturdy, twisted 2-ply yarn ensures weight and durability, while the water from the river Palar, in which the silks are rinsed, intensifies their sheen”, says Govindarajan. “Co-optex Managing Director, T.N. Venkatesh, who provides valuable input at every stage in the design process, encourages us to try out new ideas.”
“Two factors have significantly contributed to a resurgence of interest in the sari”, points out Venkatesh. “One, a growing number of young women and professionals have taken to wearing saris more often. They have created active social media groups, discussion forums and blogs about handlooms. Two, habitual sari wearers want to see the old designs back”.
The Co-optex exhibition is on at the C.P. Arts Centre, Eldams Road, Alwarpet, from today - Oct. 6. Timings: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.
