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From creating unusual silhouettes to reinventing classics, designers in hyderabad are doing everything to stay on top of the fashion game.

From creating unusual silhouettes to reinventing classics, designers in Hyderabad are doing everything to stay on top of the fashion game.

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Dream SequinsShravan Kumar, 40

Designer Shravan Kumar with model Monika Thangalapalli sporting his creation.

If there's a god he worships most ardently, "it's got to be the one in the finer details," says Shravan Kumar, who has been styling the who's who of the city for nearly two decades. Regulars find the outfits created at Kumar's studio flawless in design and detail.

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An ode to weaves and weavers of India, Kumar's creations are rendered on handlooms mostly. Sometimes there are rare kalamkaris or Mangalgiri silks, "that can outdo the softest of Dhakai muslins in the way they fall." His latest collection that he featured at the Dubai Fashion Week comprises these besides several more handlooms from across India. "The clothes were inspired from various Indian royal lineages. We had lehengas paired with cholis and kancholis, Hyderabadi khara dupattas, anarkalis and leelakalis besides chogas and peshwas, sherwanis and khaja coats for men," says Kumar.

Drawn from the royal wardrobes of India, these also have an evergreen feel about them. He adds that for the detailing, gota patti work was used besides crushed sequins for ornate borders, or minute pearls for filling a pattern and the like, "to make every garment exquisitely unique." The use of jewel tones like sapphire yellow, emerald green, ruby red or the rich blue of turquoise and the radiance of corals only added to this fervently festive collection. His advise to brides: "Pick an outfit and jewellery that ultimately reflect who you are as individuals rather than following any kind of fad." facebook.com/shravansstudio

Subtle Hints Jayanti Reddy, 28

Since she is a selftaught designer, management graduate Jayanti Reddy describes her aesthetic sensibilities as being "bound by no rules." What resulted out of a passion for clothes and art cultivated from a young age, was her eponymous label, launched in 2012, which is all about an understated sense of style, with handcrafted embroideries on naturally dyed fabrics.

Her collection titled Siaa: Reimagining the past, showcased at the spring/summer leg of the Lakme India Fashion Week 2016 features perfect examples of her design philosophy. "It was all about discovering the chic in the classic and the unusual in the traditional," says Reddy adding that it "celebrates India's weaves and dyes" albeit for the modern woman. "Siaa draws inspiration from the woman who would like to stick to her roots but is willing to experiment with her style too," says Reddy.

Ask her what else inspires her creativity and the answer is "People, travel and art." Her art-infused home is certainly a haven for creative stimulation, with a drawing room corner dedicated to Bangladeshi artist Tayeba Lipi's famous sewing machine artwork made with sharp steel razor blades. instagram.com/jayantireddy14

Thread Analysis Gaurang Shah, 43

Designer Gaurang Shah with his creations.

With every new show, Gaurang Shah's saris- that Kirron Kher once aptly described as "artworks in themselves"-are increasingly underscoring his reputation as Hyderabad's maestro of drapes. Shah's passion for Indian weaves shows in everything he creates and he believes that the possibilities can be "truly endless". His latest collection, which he showcased at the winter/festive show of the Lakme India Fashion Week 2016, was a celebration of not just regional handlooms but also of the unique weaving and dyeing techniques of India.

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Add to this the theme of Vrindavan, live music on the ramp, and more than 25 different draping style of the sari, and the show had to be a stunning success. Amidst the unstopping cheer though, Shah remains humble and gives all credit to the six-yard wonder. "My collection featured a whole range- from khadi jamdhanis to paithani saris of Maharashtra, Gujarati patolas, a treasure trove of silks from the south, Benarasi saris and a whole lot more," he says.

Handwoven dhotis, kurtas and sherwanis for men stood out for their woven textures and subdued drama. "We played with a variety of draping styles for the dhotis too, like the Telangana style, Rajasthani drape or traditional Bihari style, among others," he says. The usual bridal shades of reds, pinks and oranges were deliberately skipped for this collection. "I wanted to show how beautiful blue can look as wedding wear, instead," says Shah, inviting brides to experiment with pastels and unusual combinations such as a sky blue Kanjeevaram paired with a bright peach blouse. facebook.com/GaurangTheDesigner

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Old Weds New, Archita Narayanam, 29

Designer Archita Narayanam.

The beautiful architecture, old-world charm and bazaars of Benares had Archita Narayanam deeply inspired for her debut showcasing at the Lakme India Fashion Week this year. "I was fascinated by everything about Benares, especially its bustling marketplaces and decided to name my collection for the winter/festive season, Kaasika Bazaar," says Narayanam, as we browse through the ornately embroidered lehengas and anarkalis.

A leitmotif in this collection is the elephant, which you will see patterned in fine zardozi or chosen for a blouse latkan. "Elements like the zardozi embroidery and the peacock motifs are drawn from Hyderabad, which I have fused with my Benares inspiration," says Narayanam calling her collection, "a blend of Benarasi weaves with Hyderabadi finesse."

In greens, reds and gold, these creations are for the contemporary bride, "who would like to neither compromise on comfort nor tradition." A collared blouse to go with an otherwise conventional lehenga, a pull up dhoti sari or a jacket paired with palazzo pants are twists she's offered to her ethnic designs. "These separates can be mixed and matched too.

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For instance, the heavy jacket can be paired with a sari as well," shares the engineering graduate who never studied design but was always drawn to artsy tailoring. Her showstopper Karishma Kapoor too sported a lehenga with a western silhouette blouse and twirled on the ramp rather effortlessly, "despite the 24 kg that the outfit weighed." facebook.com/architha. narayanam/

Signature Svelte Archana Rao, 31
Archana Rao's inner artist is hugely stimulated by the juxtaposition of extreme ideas and the result is fashion that is artsy enough to intrigue, yet uncomplicated in design. Imagine fusing elements from the hi-tech clothing of astronauts with a vintage India style of the 1920s that she showcased at the New York Fashion Week. Or take for instance her collection, A petticoat, from earlier this year, which turned out to be a creative indulgence with European inner wear to reinvent statement evening dresses.

"The idea was to bring the inner wear out and work with elements like the lace of classic lingerie for designs like a slip dress worn under a sheer shirt," offers Rao. For many, it might sound like impossible propositions but for Rao, this is daily bread.

"I enjoy bringing contradictions together in most of my designs," she says settling on a couch among her creations; the exquisite pastels from the 'Astronaut Likes Tea' collection looking like they belong in a Parisian boutique. "These are mostly westerns in fabrics such as merino wool teamed with sheers for a layered kind of styling," says Rao.

The Indian vintage embroidery and pearl work makes for rich surface detailing on many of these outfits that are as wearable as they are stylised. Ask Rao to describe her clothes in one word and the spontaneous response is "hassle-free." To that, we would certainly like to add charming. facebook.com/FrouFroubyArchanaRao/