It's a land that has seen the rule of the great Cholas, Marathas and Nayaks. It's the home of one of India's most spectacular temples and, some claim, the home of the sambar. From art to architecture to dance to music, there are so many reasons to make a trip to Tanjore:
Visit one of India's largest temples
Tanjore is most famous for its UNESCO-listed Brihadeeswarar Temple, an 11th century Shiva temple built in tawny granite. The edifice was built by King Rajaraja I to celebrate a military victory. Any way you look, it's a lesson in architectural excellence: from the musical pillars, Chola-style murals and lime plaster frescoes to stucco sculptures of Lord Shiva's various incarnations and ancient Tamil inscriptions. The central tower has 16 tiers rising to a height of 216 ft, making it one of the tallest of its kind in the world. Several shrines dot the sprawling lawns of the complex, including one of India's largest statues of Nandi (Shiva's sacred bull) carved out of a single rock.
Learn how the divine instrument is made
The making of the Saraswati veena (or Thanjavur veena) is almost a dying art form. Only a handful of families still make it the traditional way. A good local guide is R Kausalya, the former principal of Thiruvaiyaru's music college who will accompany you. Your tour will include a visit to the lumber yard where jackfruit trees are chopped into shape, followed by a session with a family that has been making veenas for generations. Watch them assemble, hand-carve, gold paper and string a veena. A unique creation is an Ekantha Veenacarved out of a single jackfruit tree.
Have an art attack
The region is home to some exquisite arts and crafts, including the famous Tanjore paintings that usually depict Hindu gods, goddesses and saints and are embellished with gold foil and inlay of semi-precious stones. Watch artists create these iconic paintings on shops on South Street, or visit one of the dealers who works from home. Watch the art of bronze casting where the artisans shape a beeswax-and-resin mould, encase it in mud, heat it till the wax melts, and then carefully pour in molten panchaloha (a mix of brass, copper, silver, lead and gold). Don't miss a visit to a weavers loom to see them create the famous Thanjavur speciality- the korvai interlocking system of border-weaving.
Try some Tamil-Maratha fusion cuisine
Thanjavur is synonymous for the famous pulisadam (tamarind paste mixed with rice) and other types of dry rice mixes like ellu sadam, sambar sadam and thengai sadam, all of which are also served at temples as prasadams. Some locals claim that the south Indian sambar was first cooked in the Maratha royal kitchens of Thanjavur. When Sambhaji, the Marathi king and son of Shivaji, wanted something tangy for dinner, the ingenious cook substituted the tarty kokum with tamarind in a dal, threw in some sautéed veggies and the sambar was born! The Maratha influence on the region's cuisine can be seen in dishes such as shakar biranji—sweetened pulao with almonds and coconut to ambat bhendya—okra tossed with Indian spices.
Get more history lessons
The Tanjore Maratha palace complex was the official residence of the Bhonsle family that ruled the Thanjavur region from 1674 to 1855. Catch a glimpse of the grand Durbar Hall, where Maratha rulers gave audience to their subjects. On site is the Thanjavur Art Gallery, which has an exquisite collection of stone and bronze works from the ninth to 12thcenturies. Visit the Saraswathi Mahal Library for its collection of rare and valuable palm leaf manuscripts on all aspects of art, culture and literature even medicine, botanical paintings, old maps and sketches.
Be a local
Want a breath of fresh air? Relax at the kitschy Siva Ganga Garden between Brihadeeswarar Temple and Schwartz Church. The garden, which lies in the quadrangular Siva Ganga Fort, encompasses the Sivaganga Tank said to have been built in the 16th century. The garden would follow a century later. This is where locals indulge in simple pleasures with water slides, a toy train for children and a small zoo.
Go to church
If you thought that Tanjore was only about temples, visit the 18th century Schwartz Church built during the reign of Raja Serfoji, in the memory of Danish missionary Frederick Christian Schwartz. The most notable part of this church is the striking marble tablet on the western side, which portrays Schwartz on his death bed, with Raja Serfoji II and his ministers by the side.
Splurge!
Tanjore is a great place to pick up the traditional Tanjore dolls, with their bobbing heads—the area around the Punainallur Mariamman Temple has many small shops. Stock up on authentic Tanjore paintings embellished with semi-precious stones and gold foil. Another thing to pick up is bronze statues of gods and goddesses. The government-run Poompuhar (Gandhiji Road, +91 09486313652) is a great place to pick up handicrafts and arts at fixed prices.
Celebrate the music
Time your visit to catch the Festival of Sacred Music held in March, or the Tyagaraja Aradhana Festival in January at Tiruvaiyaru, 13km from Tanjore. The venue is the tomb of saint-composer Thyagaraja on the banks of the Cauvery when thousands of music-lovers, including doyens of Carnatic music, join the chorus to sing his immortal "pancharatna" creations. More recent is the alternative Sacred Music Festival, usually held in February, which brings a combination of Carnatic, Hindustani and World music to these parts. From thumri recitals to qawwalis to alternative rock—it all happens here.
Experience heritage luxury
For a luxurious stay opt for the newly opened Svatma, a luxury hotel, which recreates the ambience of a classic Tamil residence in a century-old home flanked by old trees. Keeping you company is period furniture, local art and craft and traditional board games like pallankuzhi. The hotel has three restaurants serving south Indian and Continental vegetarian food as a well a swimming pool designed like a temple tank and an Ayurvedic Spa. Want more cultural immersion? Ask the hotel to arrange cooking classes, local excursions, meetings with artisans, temple visits, or even visits to musical events.