Feasting meets vanchippattu at Aranmula vallasadya

Kerala has always been rich in variety when it comes to ritualistic celebrations. The colourful and sumptuous vallasadya hosted by the heritage village of Aranmula is one such unique offering, which is also a rare treat to the taste buds. The ritualistic feast is a follow-up of the largest and oldest traditional river festival, the Aranmula water regatta. With over 70 vegetarian dishes served on huge plantain leaves, the annual 80-day feast is held at the centuries-old Aranmula Sree Parthasarathy Temple, which stands on the banks of the holy river, Pampa.We take a look at the festive feast, for which Ashtamirohini (birthday of Lord Krishna), is considered the most auspicious day:
Worship, race and music
The vallasadya is considered to be an offering to the deity Lord Parthasarathy, and as part of it, the oarsmen of the snake boats or palliyodams are offered a grand feast by devotees. It is believed that the oarsmen represent the presiding deity. The uniqueness of the event is that it combines ritual offerings, race and music with an elaborate feast. The annual fete begins on July 15 and concludes on October 2.
Row down to the
Temple to taste the feast
The oarsmen from each of the karas or nearby shores are invited for the vallasadya by the devotees, and they row down to the temple kadavu in their respective palliyodams by forenoon. They step into the temple in the same wet clothes, where they are received by the temple authorities with great fanfare. They circumambulate the temple, singing vanchippatu and songs in praise of Lord Krishna prior to the feast served at the oottupura (dining hall) of the temple.
Vanchippattu for every dish
The most interesting and important aspect of the vallasadya is that, if one wants a particular dish or more of the side dishes, one has to sing for it, in typical vanchippattu style. The host is supposed to serve the item asked for, immediately. If one wants a serving of curd, the song goes thus, Chenappadi ramacharude kolappayin paalathairu. Chenappadi is a village 35 km away from the temple. For pure butter instead of ghee, the recital is Naruney nammukku venda, venna thanne kondarenam. And demanding sambar would ne something like, Vendakka vazhattiyitta sambar konduvaayo. If it is cheera thoran you want, you have to sing, Panchaliyude akshayapathrathile cheerathoran varatte.
The chef behind it all
The chef behind the massive vallasadya this year was culinary expert Pazhayidom Mohananan Namboothiri. For Ashtamirohini, the preparations were completed two days before, with the support of 70 helpers. About 8000 litres of fresh milk was used to prepare the three types of payasam.
Eighty days, 500,000 people
Around 50 palliyodams arrived at the temple this year on Ashtamirohini vallasadya, carrying 200 people each. The 80-day community meal is estimated to have a total participation of 500,000 people including the oarsmen and around 100,000 people on Ashtamirohini day. Apart from the snake boat crew, commoners can also enrol to partake in the feast.
— Arya.R@timesgroup.com