<b>The Setting:</b> Remember the Weasley's deceptively roomy accommodation for the Quidditch World Cup in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire? That was the image that popped into mind when we crossed the threshold of The Local Canteen. From its humble storefront in a pint-sized soi, you'd never imagine to find beyond the doorway, a skylit tunnel that seats nearly 70 diners.
Taking in the smart design of the place, it comes to no surprise that the owners were architecture majors. The elegant slant of the ceiling was one of the first things that stood out to us about the space. However, it's slick little details like table setting that really warm us up to The Local Canteen. If you didn't get it from the name right away, the help-yourself utensils and ridged drinking glasses on every blue and grey table spell out exactly what the spin-off is here: local canteens.
The Menu
The Local Canteen's agenda is to make Thai street food more enjoyable by taking away all the inconveniences involved with eating in the great outdoors of Bangkok. Besides providing a relaxing, air-conditioned atmosphere, this also means preparing thoughtful combinations of Thai dishes in set lunches. The restaurant's best combo is the Garlic-prawn rice and tom yum soup set (B155). Presented on a darling white tray with the rice, soup and side of shredded pork jerky in separate bowls, this is a sight for eyes sore from looking at soup sloshed rice plates day after day. Appearances aside, the taste is quality with juicy XL prawns and a well-balanced tom yum.
When it comes to ingredients, The Local Canteen definitely makes it their business to one-up the streets. Seafood lovers will appreciate the size and succulence of shellfish meat once again in The Wild betel leaf curry with New Zealand mussels à la carte entree (B235). An appetiser we highly recommend to all, however, is the Deep fried acacia pennata omelette & tuna spicy salad (B125). The English name's a little unforgiving, but it's essentially a rendition of the famed crispy catfish and green mango salad. Tuna and green apple replace the original ingredients without robbing the dish of its textural character and flavours, and the dish is served unmixed, with acacia pennata omelette hidden under the crumbed fish.
There's good news for plant-based eaters here. In addition to being very open to special requests, The Local Canteen has plenty of stand-up vegetarian dishes on the menu, including Mushroom larb (B145), Mushroom tom kha soup (B135) and Green curry with tofu (B135), as well as a wide variety of veggie stir-fries.
For desserts, the restaurant sticks to one street fave, coconut ice cream, sourcing their extra smooth supply of it from the one and only Mahachai brand. You can have your coco ice cream in many ways, including as an affogato (B95). We decided to go for tradition with a small twist: paired with mango and crushed peanut nougats (B95). Take each bite of ice cream with a bit of nutty candy, and you're in for a treat.
Coconut ice cream with mango.
Insider's Tip
Such as the way The Local Canteen curates the parts of its desserts, housewares on sale at the front corridor are handpicked -- some special ordered -- from all the best troves for rustic goods, including Yaowarat and JJ. The architect brothers who run the restaurant are constantly collecting pieces they find unique that have a touch of culture or history, so you'll definitely want a look at the repository. For commute, the restaurant is ridiculously close to BTS Chong Nonsi, but if you must, two-hour parking validation for Trinity Complex is available.
Value & Verdict
Hidden in the middle of corporate Bangkok, this Thai food joint is just what the urban neighborhood needs: a stress-free dining haven to enjoy without needing to make a big deal. Because sometimes, it's not canteen food you're actually sick of. All you want is a little more style and comfort, whether in the ingredients or in the service and atmosphere, and that's exactly what The Local Canteen has to offer.
Fried prawn with garlic & pepper served with tom yum mushroom spicy soup and steamed rice.
Deep fried acacia pennata omelette & tuna spicy salad.
Wild betel leaf curry with New Zealand mussels.
Mixed mushroom & grilled pumpkin spicy salad.
The Local Canteen
Thai
Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-9pm, Sat noon-3pm, 5:30pm-9pm
Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 3
www.facebook.com/localcanteen
02-636-6849
