Around the city
The best of Thiruvananthapuram
Let East Fort be the starting point of a day out in the city. If you are an early riser, catch the first rays of the sun. Want to start the day on a pious note? Have darshan at Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple, Pazhavangady Temple or any other temple in and around East Fort. Or else, hop on to a double-decker bus at East Fort for a ride to Sasthamangalam (it starts at 7 a.m., afternoon trips are to Shanghumugham). Have a sumptuous breakfast at a restaurant of your choice. Explore the museums, provided it is not a Monday which is a holiday. Kuthiramalika Palace opens at 8.30 a.m. Or head to Napier Museum/city zoo complex. Exploring the 55-acre campus at a stretch is tiring, so decide what you want to see.
History buffs can visit the Keralam – Museum of History and Heritage just across the road from the Museum.
For lunch, have pothichoru or a vegetarian sadya. After a break, walk or drive through areas that still retain the old world charm – areas in and around Fort or Kaithamukku; there are shops that still sell handlooms on narrow verandahs where the customers sit on mats to buy clothes; quaint places that stock and sell herbs and plants with medicinal values, the agraharams…
Tea time is a sumptuous affair with vada, bhajji, pazhampori, bonda…. As evening sets in, head to Kanakakkunnu Palace to while away your time. Or catch up with cultural events at venues such as Vyloppilly Samskriti Bhavan, Bharat Bhavan, Thycaud or music sabhas. Wind up your tour with fluffy dosas, rasavadas, omelettes and pappadas at one of those thattukadas on Vellayambalam-Vazhuthacaud stretch. Or, like comedian Aziz Ansari did, explore what’s cooking at the food trucks that dot the area before you head back home.
Ocean of adventure
Vizhinjam’s wonders
It’s worth your while to visit Vizhinjam before the sea port under construction changes the landscape as we know it for ever. Early in the morning watch the sun crest the horizon from Lighthouse beach. Head straight to Vizhinjam Harbour’s morning fish market as tens of brightly-painted boats make their way to port, laden with the day’s catch. It’s great fun to watch sellers and buyers haggling in colourful language over nets full of mackerel, tuna, King fish, sardines, prawns and the like. If you ask politely enough some of the older fishermen will teach you how to prepare the nets for their next trip. For breakfast, drop into one of the numerous small restaurants and stalls dishing out local breakfast fare nearby. Double back and make your way around the edges of the harbour up to Harbour road. Taking a selfie with the massive sea wall in the background is almost mandatory here. Walk along the paved promenade towards the Marine Research Aquarium that displays marine life. Hungry kya? Catch a rick back to Vizhinjam village and pop into Ustad Hotel, which has, arguably, the best seafood in town. Try their freshly caught fish with meals or crispy paal appams.
If you feel like stepping back into the past, explore the rock cut shrine nearby that is said to date back to the 8th century A.D. There are a few other temples a short distance on the Poovar road, which offer stunning views of the harbour.
Then head to Azhimala temple and cove, a few km away. The cove, accessible through a dirt path around the temple, and surrounded by greenery, is a beautiful spot to while away the hours. Maybe you can head to Chowara beach too. Before you head home check out Afsal restaurant in Vizhinjam and polish off a plate of spicy, crispy chicken.
Seaside rendezvousAt Varkala
Always take the route via Perumathura to Varkala. It’s less congested and smoother than the NH and the meandering road hugs the sea for much of the way, making it one of the most scenic drives in the city. Be an early bird and catch the sunrise from Perumathura beach. Stick around to watch local fishermen make landing with the morning’s catch and if you’re lucky, they’ll let you help them haul in the nets. Have a naadan breakfast in one of the roadside eateries that dot the route. As you drive along, there are innumerable inlets and coves just a hop skip and a jump from the road in case you want a quick dip. Don’t forget to soak in the sun at the almost deserted Kappil beach. Cruise the adjacent lake and backwaters on a boat on hire. Make your way to Varkala Cliff for a stunning view of the sea. Find a sea-facing table in one of the many shacks on the Cliff such as Abba, Café Italia, Café de la Mar and Tibetan Kitchen and gorge on a variety of international cuisine. We recommend the catch-of-the-day seafood dishes for lunch. If you feel like cooling off you can always trek down to the beach for a quick swim before your order arrives. Once you’ve had your fill of the view, head to the new, four-storey aquarium at Thiruvambady and get a glimpse of the wonders of the ocean.
They’ll even let you hold a star fish in your hand! Those who are spiritually inclined can visit the Janardhana Swamy temple and the Sivagiri Mutt. Take the NH back home with a stopover at the ancient Anchuthengu Fort nearby, for a quick lesson in history, and climb up to the top of the adjacent lighthouse. Be prepared for heavy traffic at Attingal, Kaniyapuram and Kazhakoottam, while driving back to the city.
To the hills
Nedumangad and beyond
Start after an early breakfast by about 8 a.m. From Peroorkada, take the road that goes to Nedumangad, about 20 km from the city. In about an hour’s time you will reach Aruvikkara dam. Here, the river flows through the foothills of the Western Ghats and over a rocky bed. A temple is located atop a hill. Dip your feet in the river, feed the fish, soak in the peaceful ambience of the place.
It is pleasant place to halt for a tea and some snacks before heading towards Nedumangad town where there is the historic Koyikkal Palace.
The drive over the bridge from Aruvikkara has some picturesque views. So if you are driving, it is best to stop the car and walk on the bridge to snap those views on your camera. From then on it’s a tryst with nature.
The Kallar river is never far away from the road; a bend in the road shows you glimpses of the green river tumbling over rocks and stones.
After lunch (nothing fancy in these parts), you can either choose to go to Peppara Dam and spend the day there amidst butterflies and birds or travel to the Jawarharlal Nehru Tropical Botanic Garden & Research Institute (TBGRI), about 18 km from Vithura. The entire day can be spent here. The beautiful garden is open on Saturday and Sunday but closed on Monday.
The canteen offers tea and eats.
The only drawback is the restroom with basic facilities. Watch out for speeding vehicles on the winding road as you drive back to the city in the evening. The road to hilly Nedumangad and beyond to Ponmudi goes through some of the greenest areas in Thiruvananthapuram district.
The road south
Kanyakumari
It is best to start early to avoid the traffic on the National Highway. If you start by 7 a.m. or 8 a.m., you will be able to reach Chitharal by 9.30 -10 a.m. Trek up the hill to explore one of the oldest Jain monuments in this part of South India. By the time you descend, the shops would have opened for a quick bite.
Go on to Marthandam and take the road to Kulasekharam. On the way is Thiruvattar, where there is a huge Adi Kesava Perumal temple dedicated to Vishnu. About three km away is Thottipalam, one of the world’s longest aqueducts. Get mesmerised by the green vistas all around.
Or keep driving to Padmanabhapuram and explore the Padmanabhapuram Palace. Check out Udayagiri Fort near the Palace. It is here that the Dutch commander Eustachius De Lannoy was buried.
Those with a spiritual bend can visit the historic, picture-perfect Thiruvithamcode Arapally (officially St. Mary’s Syrian Church), almost hidden amid the coconut groves and lotus ponds of this charming border village near Thuckalay, a short drive from the National Highway that connects Thiruvananthapuram and Kanyakumari.
Lunch at Nagercoil should include a spicy biriyani that is still served on plantain leaves at some places. Shop for temple jewellery for Nagercoil is the home of Vadaserri jewellery.
If you decide to visit the large temple dedicated to the Naga Gods in the heart of Nagercoil, you might miss the sunset at Kanyakumari. Travelling southwards takes you to Kanyakumari. Watch the sun set paint the skies in blazing reds and oranges and the meeting point of the Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. It would not be possible to make atrip to Vivekananda Rock if you reach Kanyakumari at dusk. Plan the trip and skip a few places to visit the awe-inspiring Vivekananda Rock. Beginning the drive to Thiruvananthapuram by about 7 p.m. should see you back in the city by 9.30 to 10 p.m. The return journey can be tiresome due to traffic congestion at Marthandam and Balaramapuram. Most of the non-vegetarian joints on the way from Nagercoil onwards serve spicy, lip-smacking food, though the wash rooms are a disgrace in most places.
