Restaurant Review: Bastian

No two ways about it. We’ve fallen hook, line and sinker for this two-month-old seafood eatery, ‘Bastian’. That it’s named after Sebastian, the cheerful Crustacean in Disney film, 'The Little Mermaid', gave us some clue about what to expect. But not completely. Gourmet extraordinaire, Firoza Moos, Le Cordon Bleu trained patisseur (who now bakes only Christmas cakes, which are booked months in advance) was as dazzled by Bastian as Rajiv Ved, a brilliant ex-IITian, a self-confessed “non-foodie”.We will return!
DECOR
An off-putting, narrow staircase takes you into the two floored Bandra restaurant. There’s a riot of fishy and kitschy adornments: an enormous crocodile mounted on the wall, crabs et al. The wooden furniture gives Bastian a warm and comfortable feel.
FOOD
Sure, seafood with a modern Asian spin is the focus, but there is chicken and lamb, and fifty per cent of the menu is vegetarian. Go for the small plates. Vibrant Ponzu and Jalapeno Sparkle, the Norwegian sushi grade salmon and it’s the sesame, soy, sambal, lime juice that enliven the Sushi grade Tuna and Avocado. Avocado Salsa on the butter poached Lobster delights.
Vegetarian wows. Silky, velvety with butter and white wine shimeji, enoki, king, portobello and button mushrooms. Crunchy Rice spiked Spicy Eggplant Tartare with Miso Glaze seduces.
Whoa! What gems of wizardry emerge from the tandoor, charred Pineapple with the kiss of butter and kick of togarashi. Maple glazed Sweet Potato, Teriyaki Broccoli and more. From the market menu (pick seafood and pair with one of the six sauces), we try the Mud Crab (huge portion) in delicious South East Asian coconut curry and mop it up with fried Mantou. Choice of breads surprises... from naans, rotis to steamed Chinese bread to giant sea salt pretzel. Only cheesecakes on dessert menu. It’s the Creme Brûlée Cheesecake with its crackly crust that comes up tops.
MINUS POINTS
Bastian prides itself as a seafood restaurant but it offers only a limited variety of seafood.... Plans to expand variety underway. The desserts disappoint, highly priced (Rs 500) small wedges, too experimental (Black Pepper Honey Cheesecake) or too stodgy (Turtle Cheesecake). The authentic Singapore-style Crab missing. The service can get inattentive.
MY POINT
Exuberantly inventive. The gifted chefs Kelvin Cheung and Boo Kwang Kim revel in big flavour pay offs. Creative flourishes and an impressive attention to detail — be it the seafood or vegetarian cuisines. We go unannounced and it’s packed on a Tuesday night. I pay Rs 14,000 for four (we over order to try more dishes). (Meal for two between Rs 3,000 to Rs 5,000 for two). Kudos Mr and Mrs Cheung (who are always in-house) for your two-month-old bonny baby, Bastian’s gastronomic muscle and swagger!