Tarun Tahiliani’s ICW 2016 collection: Courting the Courtesan

Models in creations by Tarun Tahiliani. (Source: Express Photos by Tashi Tobgyal)

When a fashion show begins with Begum Akhtar’s signature ghazal, Deewana banana hai toh, expectations fly high. But veteran designer Tarun Tahiliani did justify the use of a ghazal so sad and romantic to tell his story. His couture collection, “The Last Dance of the Courtesan”, which was showcased on Thursday night at Delhi’s Taj Palace, narrated the misunderstood tale of the courtesan – the custodian of art, the keeper of secrets. A giant chandelier, the scent of mogra, and Darbari Kathak dancer Manjari Chaturvedi set the tone for the show.

Models with disheveled buns and flowers in their hair walked the runway in cream churidar-kurtas, lehengas paired with shirts and tasseled blouses, sleeveless anarkalis and heavily embellished shararas. The men sported velvet Nehru jackets over long kurtas and sherwanis with chikankari work on them.

But traditional cuts were suddenly interrupted by a rather sassy narrative when transparent churidars and palazzos in black, paired with kurtas, black saris and lehengas with bold, floral embroideries and Chantilly lace made an appearance. Tahiliani’s colour scheme oscillated between beige, pink, salmon and ivory on one hand, and orange, red, maroon and emerald green on the other.

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The top pick of the collection remains the brocade lehengas and saris. He used fabrics such as tulle, velvet, georgette and sheer silk, and plenty of embellishments and embroideries such as zardozi, gota, aari and sitara.

Barring a few unnecessary veils, and some crystal-ODed lehengas, the show didn’t need a showstopper, as the clothes did all the walking and the talking.