The Hayat Baqshi Begum Masjid is a picture of contrasts. In the middle of a huge quadrangle is the masjid with pure white minarets with a bulbous protrusion. But around the masjid, the 134 rooms of the serai are either being conserved where they appear as if the work has just been completed, or it seems like they may collapse any time. The Rs. 1-crore budget allocated for conservation under the 13{+t}{+h}Finance Commission has been exhausted in finishing just a part of the work.
On the other hand, the Masjid built in 1626 by Hayat Baqshi Begum has been restored to its pristine glory with cured limestone. The main eastern entrance also has been restored. “The serai’s rooms have been restored in this portion,” says a masjid worker, pointing to the southern and a few rooms in the eastern wing. Some of the rooms had the roofs repaired while most of the rooms on the western and northern side have remained untouched leading to leakages and growth of vegetation. As the limestone plastering has fallen off, the stone is exposed making it vulnerable to monsoon damage.
“The masjid is fully restored, the paving work is also completed while conservation work on some portions of the serai is yet to be done. We are awaiting administrative sanction for funds,” said N.R. Visalatchy, Director of Department of Archaeology and Museums, when asked about the state of affairs.
“We are working on multiple fronts. The Hayatnagar masjid is sufficiently stabilised. We will see to it that the serai also is kept in the picture. We have to prioritise about where we focus our energies,” said Ms. Visalatchy.
The Hayatnagar masjid and serai was built at the height of Qutb Shahi glory when Mughal threat was not even a speck on the horizon. One Dutch traveller described the serai as well as the palace complex around it to the last detail, including the number of rooms as well as a palace complex surrounding it. Unfortunately, nothing of that remains except the serai and the hathi bowli (well).
“The western wall of the hathi bowli collapsed two years ago. We used to swim in this well, now there is not a drop of water,” said Muhammad Husain, a local resident.
Interestingly, some of the bird and animal figurines etched on the walls of the well are still intact.
