Tourism potential untapped in Nelong Valley

Ajay Ramola

Tribune News Service

Mussoorie, June 23

“Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can and the wisdom to know the difference.”

This Tibetan proverb is apt to describe the vast expanse of the serene and unchanging Tibetan plateau that extends into the Nelong Valley situated at around 11,000 feet, bordering China in Uttarkashi district.

Tourists who reach the Nelong Vallley, although after a lot of hindrance, are mesmerised by the vast and serene expanse of the barren mountains, crystal clear waters flowing through the rivers redefining the meaning of beauty that nature has bestowed in the region.

The Nelong Valley is the part of the Gangotri National Park and besides enjoying the vast expanse of the mountain desert, one comes across rich wildlife, mostly endangered species such as snow leopard, musk deers and Himalayan blue sheep in the region. For trekkers, snowcapped mountains are enough an attraction, making it a must visit place.

The Nelong Valley, with the stunning view of Tibetan plateau, was part of a popular trade route prior to the China war in 1962. The Jaad community were involved in the trade from India to China from this route.

Following the 1962 war, the government declared the whole area as restricted. Jaad tribes along with other living along the banks of Jad Ganga river were forced to shift to Bagori and Dunda villages in Uttarkashi.

Shanti, a resident of Bagori village, says two villages – Keelang and Jadung across the river Jadh Ganga—near Lanka in the Bhairon Valley were her family’s home before they shifted to Bagori. It is believed that the Jadung is close to the place where King Janka did penance. Villagers prior to the Chinese aggression used to move up and down for six months and were involved in trade with Tibet. Following the Chinese aggression, the Indian Army moved in and the local tribes were shifted to Bagori and Dunda villages which were familiar to them since they were the important stopovers when the trade with Tibet was opened.

The Ringali Devi and Someshwar Devta temple fair that is held at Jadung village in June every year is the only way left now to reconnect with the glorious trading past with Tibet.

Small rivers and shining glaciers attract many visitors. The trek can also be extended by further going to Mana Pass and Saraswati Tal and finally ending at Badrinath temple, says Tilak Soni local adventure tour operator, who runs a firm ‘Where eagles dare’.

Soni says the Nelong Valley, much to the delight of locals and adventure enthusiasts, was opened to tourists last May and it has created much curiosity towards the region.

However, the limitations imposed by the Gangotri National Park on the entry of tourists is hindering the growth of the region as a major tourist spot of Garhwal that has all the ingredients of competing with Leh and Ladakh in Jammu Kashmir.

Soni says giving permission only to six SUV vehicles that too till the Nelong post, which is 23 km from the Bhairon Ghati check post, has no meaning as the main valley begins from the Nelong post. Motorcycle riding is completely banned, much to the disgust of tourists.

Tourists are not permitted to camp in the valley due to it being close to Indo-China border and the endangered species that live in the Gangotri National Park. The multi-permit regime acts as a major hindrance for the tourists who have to run form one department to another to seek permit, thus resulting in a wastage of time. Foreigners are not permitted in the valley due to understandable reasons but relaxation can be given to national tourists by allowing one-night camp in the valley, says Soni.

Narendar Singh and Upendar Sajwan, both local adventure tour guides operating from Uttarkashi, say this area is a hidden treasure for tourism. If utilised to its potential, it can be a major bread earner similar on the lines of Leh and Ladakh.

Former Gangotri MLA Gopal Rawat said Forest Minister Dinesh Agarwal had declared the Nelong Valley open last May and had assured jobs for locals with the increase in number of tourists but only few hundred enthusiasts have made it to the Nelong valley due to the cumbersome requirements imposed by the forest department and Administration. Tourists have to seek inner line permit to visit Nelong Valley and they are not permitted to stay overnight due to forest department restriction. Opening the valley only till the Nelong post has no meaning as the real adventure of Tibetan plateau begins beyond that. It is of no use if tourists are not allowed to camp in such sites. Opening the valley at a cosmetic level will serve no purpose not even that of securing votes, says Gopal.

He says Union Minster of State for Home Affairs Kiran Rijuju during a recent visit to the district was apprised of the demand for removing the inner line permit clause for foreigners from the Harsil Valley and for Indians from the Nelong Valley. Rijuju has forwarded the issue to the departments concerned but nothing has happened so far.

Shantanu Sarkar, director of the Winterline Nature Trust, says tourism and environment can go hand in hand. “Considering that hardly an adventurist will travel to Nelong on account of physical challenge, the scope for pollution and environmental degradation is limited. Since it is the valley entrance point, the situation can be properly controlled with strict inspection of baggages”.

He said in Europe, the forest department regulates seasonal camps in the Alps that are opened for a few months. The baggage of every tourist is checked to find out plastic litter, if any. Same can be done in the Nelong valley that is being compared to Leh and Ladakh and can be a big revenue earner for the state. Increased tourism will result in sustainable livelihood for the locals, he added.