Pete Evans’ East Perth restaurant Heirloom ripe for those on a health kick

NOW that Highgate’s Solomon’s Cafe has closed, diners with healthy hankerings and dietary restrictions might feel stuck for options.

It’s good news for Heirloom, the Pete Evans-partnered East Perth restaurant inside the Fraser Suites hotel.

When I visit for lunch, the number of empty tables would suggest that either no one knows about it or it’s terribly unpopular. It shouldn’t be. Consultant chef Evans has been here four times already this year and launched a new menu last month.

Vegetarians, gluten intolerants and dairy-dodgers are catered for in almost every dish. It’s also better than I expected because, despite dabbling with quinoa, I do feel apprehensive about diving into a paleo-focused restaurant devised by a celebrity chef whose image has morphed from blue-eyed charmer to wetblanket zealot (sorry, Pete).

To start, I pick the raw zucchini lasagne ($21). Confusingly, it arrives warm – not what I’d call raw – but, gosh, it’s tasty. Olive slivers add saltiness to the easily sliced zucchini layers, while cashew “cheese” is the perfect replacement for bechamel.

Banana flower salad “with crispy cashew” ($22) is fresh and herby with subtly dressed coriander leaves, rough-cut chicken, julienned raw vegetables but, oddly, few cashews. Thin chicken skin wafers are an interesting but ultra-salty addition that works only when blended in a mouthful.

A mix of curiosity and reviewer’s obligation prompts me to order “Pete’s nasi goreng” ($33) made not with rice but with diced caulifl ower. I’m dreading it. But the dish surprises. It’s a big bowl of goodness, tossed with chicken, prawn chunks, bacon strips and vegetables, topped with a runny, fried egg and lime cheek. Texture is great, though flavour is restrained; a slug of kecap manis would help.

I mix in the “optional” side of chilli, coriander and fried onion (no extra charge, nor any menu mention – I get it only because I ask). Without it, the dish risks being as bland as it is expensive.

Recalling talk of beef bone broth being the latest food fad, I can’t resist trying Pete’s mug of the stu ($10). Dark brown, opaque liquid heats the back of my throat with a hint of chilli and star anise. Not bad, but $10? Really?

My mate’s roasted barramundi fillet ($39) is a white island on a beach of sweet potato purée, surrounded by hot, lime-spiked coconut cream, sprinkled with chia seeds. The expertly cooked fish has a salty, crisp skin lid and ticks the nurturing box. She likes the side of kale with tahini and coconut dressing ($7) but, for me, the dish lacks dimension.

Both desserts are deconstructed. The intriguing “paleo rocky road” ($14) looks a treat but fails in the flavour stakes. Insipid, frost-bitten chocolate sorbet is formed into a mini Magnum with rose-infused Turkish jelly, housemade marshmallows, petals and chocolate soil.

Pumpkin pie ($14) is more rewarding. Spiced puréed slices masquerade as pumpkin cubes, crowned with coconut sorbet and green pepitas, on top of biscuity crumb and spliced with chocolate “bark” coating bacon slivers.

Heirloom does decent, original, healthy and ethical dishes but ultimately it doesn’t offer enough – service is slow and atmosphere’s at point zero. But if you’re on a health kick, be my guest.