From Scotland to Madras, check patterns are often good indicators of clothing tradition of a country. Recently, a Japanese check made news when 45 interconnecting pieces forming a check pattern were selected as the winning logo of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.
The check pattern – known as ichimatsu moyou – epitomises elegance and sophistication that sums up the spirit of the country. While Asao Tokolo, the bright Tokyo-based artist highlighted the spirit of his motherland, he is also in sync with the global fashion trends as designers are playing with checks like never before. These days, the check pattern is best represented by gingham, a lightweight cotton fabric common in East Asian nations. While it has made a global comeback in fashion and home furnishing like tablecloth and curtains, the roots of this fabric are essentially Eastern. Gingham is available in check pattern of white and bold colours.
Derived from the Malaysian word genggang meaning striped, gingham initially was in a bright colour stripe but later appeared as a check pattern. Its history can be traced to Dutch colonised Malaysia way back in the 17th Century before it flooded the European markets.
Giving a cultural perspective to this lightweight fabric, designer Gautam Gupta says the check pattern assumes significance in Japan as it has spiritual connotations. “Gingham was wrapped around a statue when a child died. Japanese street fashion is known for its mix-match of different styles and genres. Old timers still hold gingham in high esteem and Japan is a hub of gingham manufacturing.”
That gingham style is in vogue can be gauged from the fact that the extremely dashing and fashion conscious President Obama wore a gingham shirt at a White House event recently. And Japanese girl group AKB48 used this fabric as the theme for its single Gingamu Chekku. Gingham dresses are being proudly endorsed by bespoke labels.
Gautam – who has used the magic of gingham on saris – says, the fabric comes and goes out of fashion but will always be linked with nostalgia and youth. “There is no right or wrong side in gingham as it has the same appearance on both sides. This is done by colouring the fabric before they are woven together. As a result, gingham is economically-priced and is used by designers and those into home furnishing.”
On its use in India, Gautam says the best example is the good old gamchha which is a gingham towel used to dry the body. Adding how the modest gamchha can be turned into gingham top with some tweaking, he says: “Gingham fabric is immensely popular now, best worn as wrap-ons, dresses, skirts, romper, sarees and blouses. The durability, bright colours and lightness of the fabric makes it a winner for summer wear.”
Explaining how the Japanese check pattern looks similar to motifs of the North East, Arunachali designer Yana Ngoba
says: “Historically, we have an ethnic link. “Patterns made from loin loom are closest to the Japanese check pattern.” Describing gingham as the fabric of the fashion conscious who is in touch with ground realities, designer Gaurav Gupta says, “It is definitely an Eastern fabric. It is gaining importance worldwide because it is cool and designers have successfully shifted it from tablecloth to garments.”
The Indo-Japanese knot
An authority on Japanese prints, Rahul Mishra – whose fondness for Japanese designs developed while being taught by Japanese professors at Milan and NID in Ahmedabad – says the Japanese check pattern is an amalgamation of modernity and strong tradition. “Both India and Japan are strong in terms of craft and technique. Detailing, simplicity, geometry and fluidity in designs can be seen in both countries. There have been exchanges between the two Asian nations regarding the technical know-how. There is commonality between Shiboni, Japanese dyeing technique and tie and dye technique of Bandhini.”
