Where to Casa Verde, a new Jamaica Plain taqueria from restaurateurs David Doyle, Mari Perez-Alers, and Keith Harmon, who are also behind Tres Gatos and Centre Street Cafe.
What for Reasonably priced Mexican fare from chef Sean Callahan, formerly of Ten Tables.
The scene It's standing room only on one of Casa Verde's first nights. All of JP seems to be present in this welcoming sliver of a room, with its turquoise tin ceilings and walls covered in brick and green-and-red painted cacti, like something out of "Little Shop of Horrors": Feed me, señor. At the bar and perched on small benches at tables are doctors, first dates, artists, senior citizens. A kid with dreads piled tall in his black hat shares tacos with a guy with giant hoops in his ears. A woman with green hair and a wildly printed skirt waits for a seat. Somewhere, a baby weeps to a tambourine background.
What you're eating Snacks, from chips and guac to tlacoyos (pan-seared masa with salsa verde and your choice of chorizo, shrimp, or beans) to tostadas topped with ceviche made from the daily catch. Tacos twist tradition just gently — they include the likes of chipotle-roasted cauliflower, fried smelts, and lamb al pastor. There are also tortas and plates — chicken mole, cheese, and chard enchiladas — served with rice and beans, plus a few desserts.
Advertisement
Care for a drink? Beer is divided into categories: light, medium, hoppy, hoppier, big, and sweet(ish) — everything from Mexican lager to Boulevard chocolate ale with raspberry. Wine embraces the New World (mostly Argentina, Chile, and California, but there's a white from Maine). Cocktails include mezcal-based margaritas (spicy or not), micheladas, a Pimm's cup, and potions incorporating Fernet and Montenegro.
Overheard Servers explaining the menu: "Chef wants to make sure we are using sustainable fish," a man informs a patron swilling a margarita. "I don't know where to stand," says a woman laughing awkwardly, perched at the end of the bar. "Because I don't get out more, I will start with beer," announces a young gentleman. "See anything you like?" a woman drinking bubbly asks her beer-drinking date. "Uh, the tacos?" he replies unhelpfully. "So we'll have a little snack here, then go to Centre Street, and top it off with dessert at Tres Gatos," crows a pleased neighborhood denizen. Harmon passes by, making the rounds, and recognizes a reporter. "Overheard," he intones: "Staff members complaining about lack of sleep."
Advertisement
711 Centre St., 617-477-9977, www.casaverdejp.com.
Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.