JOIN USA zillion stars sparkled high up in the sky. I gazed at them, speechless. It was a rare sight for me. Being from a city full of highrises, I had forgotten what a star-spangled sky looks like. The reflection of stars in the lake was even more spectacular.
Seemed like the lake was lit up with tiny lamps all over. I was in Nainital, after all. A place in the state of Uttarakhand I had heard so much about from my friends in the northern part of India who called it their “favourite hill station”.
Born of a lake
This picturesque town in the Kumaon foothills, surrounded by several mountains, is situated 6,500 feet above sea level, and hence enjoys a climate that people from the plains love to experience. As fascinating as the scenic beauty of the town is its history, and the myths associated with it. The pristine lake in the centre of the town, Naini Lake, after which the town gets its name, is believed to be one of the 64 Shakti Peethas, where parts of the charred remains of Sati (Parvathi) fell while Lord Shiva was carrying them. The place where the eyes (nain in Hindi) of Sati fell came to be known as Nainital or lake of the eye. No wonder, Nainital is also home to the Naina Devi Temple where Goddess Shakti is worshipped as the presiding deity of the town.
After a visit to the Naina Devi Temple, located close by, where I thanked the goddess for allowing me the exotic experience of savouring the beauty of the place, I mulled over the history of Nainital that I had learnt about while planning my trip. Kumaon Hills came under the control of the British following the Anglo-Nepalese War of 1814-16, but was founded only in 1841, to help the British escape the harsh summers of the plains. The place very soon came to be regarded as a health resort by British soldiers and officials.
Later, several educational institutions too came up in Nainital, for the benefit of the children of British officials in India. One such school, called the Diocesan Boys’ School, later named Sherwood College, is the place where our Bollywood biggies like Amitabh Bachchan, Kabir Bedi and Dalip Tahil were educated. Two other institutions, St Joseph’s College and St Mary’s Convent, recently celebrated their 125th anniversaries. Such is the reputation Nainital enjoys when it comes to educational institutions. I was really impressed.
The tranquillity of the place was sure like a balm to the soul. I got up early on both days of my stay in Nainital and went on long walks along the lake, watching the slow pace of life of the locals, and envying them for the same. And, of course, enjoying the view of mountains surrounding the place. I also did some touristy stuff like visiting Pt G B Pant High Altitude Zoo, and Gurney House, the home of wildlife conservationist Jim Corbett.
Just 2 days in Nainital were enough to get me addicted to fresh air, scenic beauty and the silence of the hills. With Nainital as base, I decided to explore Bhimtal, which was just 22 km away. A town older than Nainital, Bhimtal is named after Bhima, one of the Pandavas. According to popular legends, Bhima was enamoured by demoness Hidimbi, enraging her brother. A fight soon ensued between Bhima and Hidimbi’s brother, in which Bhima won. Tired after the fight, Bhima wished for water to wash himself, and a spring of water spouted out, which is the Bhimtal Lake today.
Sacred connections
Legends associated with Bhima abound in Bhimtal. It is also believed that it was in Bhimtal that Bhima worshipped Lord Shiva during the exile of the Pandavas, accounting for the Bhimeshwar Mahadev Temple here. The present temple was built by Baz Bahadur, a king of the Chand dynasty, in the 17th Century, and the Raja of Kumaon. It was interesting to note that all the tourists visiting Bhimtal mark their attendance at the temple.
The crystal clear waters of Bhimtal Lake sure look inviting. No wonder it is home to paddlings of ducks that waddle their way through the lake happily, claiming their ownership over its quiet allure. Bigger than the Nainital Lake, Bhimtal Lake has an island at its centre, with a restaurant. It is a birdwatchers’ paradise, too.
Bhimtal is also an ideal spot for activities like boating, swimming, canoeing, trekking and paragliding. Boating in Bhimtal is a must as the experience of a boat ride, with the ducks right next to our boats, and the silent hills around, is almost unparalleled.
Just 4 km away is Naukuchiatal, the lake with 9 corners, which redefines nature that’s immaculate and unspoilt. So does Sattal, a cluster of 7 interconnected lakes, named interestingly as Ramtal, Lakshmantal, Sitatal, Bharattal, Hanumantal, Naldamyantital and Guradtal, and surrounded by tall pine and oak trees.
With its abundance of scenic riches, Nainital is any nature lover’s dream destination, a place one would like to visit over and over again. My short vacation was almost over. As I packed my bags, I resolved to return to this slice of paradise very soon. I will probably include Jim Corbett National Park, too, in my next visit, which is just 66 km away from Nainital. Till then, sampa (goodbye), as they say in Kumaoni.
Fact File
How to reach
By air: The nearest airport is at Pantnagar, 65 km away.
By train: The nearest railway station is at Kathgodham, 34 km away.
By road: Bus connectivity to most cities of North India is very good.
Best season to visit
May to mid-July and October.
Places around Nainital: Bhimtal (22 km), Jeolikot (18 km), Jim Corbett
National Park (66 km), Naukhuchiatal (30 km), Sattal (45 km), Mukteshwar (47 km), Kainchi Dham (17 km).