Sanjay Garg, who started the label Raw Mango, doesn’t like the concept of fashion shows. In fact, he hates the front-row hierarchy. That explains the setting of his recent event in Chennai. The room was redolent with the smell of jasmine. There was no ramp and the seats were arranged facing each other — that way, everybody got to be a front-row guest.
The entire décor was planned by the designer; right from the sheer curtains to the unusual music and the strings of jasmine placed on everyone’s seats. Some of the models held green parrots (made of plastic of course) as they delicately walked around the ballroom at the Taj Connemara. “The jasmine and parrots are inspired by Chennai. I saw those parrots on the temple gopurams and wanted them to be part of the show. I think this is the culture capital of India,” says Sanjay, who was here at an event organised by FICCI FLO (for their change of guard) and Amethyst. He says that all hotel venues look the same to him. So, he came up with these innovations to kill the monotony. “I once hosted a show at my place and used the garden for the models to walk by,” he adds.
The collection showcased here is from his eponymous label. While Raw Mango, which he launched in 2008, is all about non-stitched garments, the label Sanjay Garg, which took shape in 2014, focusses on stitched outfits. The line on display here is a tribute to Varanasi. “A majority of the outfits are in brocade. I really want to create a brand for Benaras, like there is for Kanjeevaram,” says Sanjay. The garments are a marriage of brocade and embroidery. There are lehengas, saris, kurtas inspired by tribes in Rajasthan, quilted jackets, cigarette pants, Rajputi blouses in brocade, silks and organza. The hues include subtle off-whites, salmon pink, midnight blue and parrot green. There were a few glimmering gold-toned tunics and saris which, against the lights, looked like moving flames. “That gold sari is my favourite. It’s a Varanasi tissue material, has no border, and suits any body type and skin tone.”
The label that started with three people now has 100 employees in the administrative department and around 1,200 weavers in Varanasi, Chanderi, Andhra and West Bengal. Along with his team, his fan base too has grown, and the designer seems thrilled about it. A number of guests even turned up in clothes created by him, much to his delight. “To me, what I make is a balance of tradition, design and skill, and it’s contemporary,” he says, before a sea of women engulfs him to compliment him. Then, all one can see is a sea of mogra s.
