It’s All Change At YSL as Hedi Slimane Is Replaced By Anthony Vaccarello

[Photo: Instagram/Voguehommes & YSL]

With the current stream of departures at labels and the sweeping chop and change of creative directors at the industry’s most prestigious houses, Hedi Slimane’s exit at the French fashion house Saint Laurent, although a mournful one, came as no surprise to the fashion world.

Rumours were rife at fashion week, predicting that his most recent catwalk collection - which was a magnificent show if anything - would be his last for the label and indeed, such hearsay once again, played out as fact.

With a critically acclaimed four year run as creative director of the esteemed fashion house extending from 2012 to this year, it is most certain that his unique, grunge-induced flair at the brand will be dearly missed. Although a relatively short span, there is no doubt that Hedi achieved great things during his time at YSL. He, after all, was the creative director who single-handedly performed a turnaround of the brand’s image, something which, in 2012 saw the shocking dropping of the iconic ‘Yves’ from the Saint Laurent name.

His rock inspired guise even propelled the brand in to a great financial streak. With Saint Laurent’s earnings over $1 billion in 2015, takings were up by 38% from the previous year and this vast increase in profits has since turned the house into one of the most profitable for its owner, Kering.

Looks from Hedi’s final Saint Laurent show - Paris Fashion Week A/W 2016 [Photo: Getty]

With his most recent collection debuting to praising reviews, the usual for Hedi, the statistics too act as further, solidifying proof that the Slimane effect has worked.

The chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, François-Henri Pinault praised Slimane for representing a ‘unique chapter in the history of the house.’

In a statement confirming the news of Hedi’s much rumoured exit, he further gave his graduate to the now, former creative director: “I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand.”

But what now for the designer? Well, although a departure may seem illogical for such a celebrated and successful run as creative director for Saint Laurent, nothing as of yet has been reported as fact, however rumours have pointed in the direction of Chanel, a change which would be a bold move indeed.

[Photo: Instagram/YSL]

For Saint Laurent however? Rumours have once again, solidified as truth. As predicted, Anthony Vaccarello, who on Sunday, exited as creative director of Versus Versace, Versace’s sister line (a position he held for a year after being a consultant for two, alongside running his own, eponymous label) has been announced as Hedi Slimane’s successor at Saint Laurent.

The news of Vaccarello’s appointment came through a joint statement from the label and parent company, Kering, on Monday. “I am very happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent,” said Francessa Bellettini, the president and CEO of Saint Laurent of the new creative director.

François-Henri Pinault added “I am very proud to welcome such a vivid and young force among today’s creative fashion talents to Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s unique style will greatly express the maison’s creative signature and fashion authority, building on the brand’s solid foundations, and further developing it to realise its full potential. Together with the entire Yves Saint Laurent team, Anthony Vaccarello will strongly contribute to the maison’s growing accomplishments.”

Anthony Vaccarello A/W 2016 [Photo: Getty]

The next Saint Laurent collection, Spring/Summer 17, which is set to show in Paris in October, will of course, be the first under Anthony Vaccarello’s creative directorship. There is no doubt that such will make for an interesting and anticipated atmosphere surrounding the fashion house in the run up to the collection’s debut. And, with good reason too, Anthony Vaccarello is an apt replacement in the wake of Hedi’s departure.

“Mr Saint Laurent is a legendary figure for his creativity, style and audacity,“ said Vaccarello of his new role. "I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the history of this extraordinary house.”

With his own collections, and those under his creative guise for Versus Versace received to critical acclaim, Saint Laurent will surely prosper without Hedi Slimane after all.

With the interesting removal of all of Hedi’s work from the Saint Laurent Instagram page, a platform which has as well, reverted back to the original Yves Saint Laurent name, it seems that with Anthony Vaccarello as the newly appointed creative director, YSL are set on wakening a whole new, fresh chapter for the French fashion house.

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