Want to smell right? Here's what is slated to be hot in 2016.

GAURI GARODIA
Artisnal Perfume Maker
The art of fragrance is all about fantasy, power and romance that dictate your memory. The perfume wardrobe has always been influenced by celebrity scents and glossy promotions. But over time, niche perfumeries have found their place in the luxury market. It's not about the iconic face on the bottle anymore; it's about what's in the bottle.

The way the idea of luxury is evolving, there is a certain level of uniformity even though we feel everything is different. We have become so visual that we have lost touch with our primal instinct of smell. Over access to imagery perhaps has contributed to this dulling of our sense of smell. In some ways, we all are alike so how does one stand out? It's not about the obvious things, the homogeneous things; it's about the choices you make. Fragrance is one of the most distinct choices that makes one stand out.

It is a subtle and versatile means of self expression: both for the wearer and the creator. Working on fragrance is akin to trying to bottle the ephemeral. It is challenging and a highly emotional and subjective business. With my artisanal perfumer, my ambition is to create fragrances that connect with the user. The result is a signature that is uniquely provocative yet feels personal. Here are some of the top trends in fragrances that we are likely to see this year.

NICHE IS NOW MAINSTREAM
Discerning consumers are showing a growing interest in small fragrance focused fragrance brands. With niche perfumes, the emphasis is on creativity, originality and there is a lot invested in the palette. For example, Frederic Malle and Creed. The emergence of niche and the idea of layering are both significant.

SIMPLE SCENTS ARE IN
A trend towards simplistic fragrance structures which are extremely likable and where the palette is easy to identify, for example, a new launched brand 'Fresh' from the LVMH stable. It comprises simple accords which can be layered on skin as per consumers preference. A lot of the Jo Malone fragrances follow a similar concept.

LAYERING IS THE NEW MANTRA
Simple accords can be applied in layers. This offers some freedom to the consumer to play and customise the final signature to his or her liking. We have also built in some layering capability in some of our fragrances. For instance, our Eaux de Rose, which is our rendition of a summer rose can be layered with Happy Blu. Happy Blu is an effervescent cocktail of apples, pears, peaches and musk and is transparent and young. This accord males the rose a little, less lady-like and a lot more playful.

SMELL OF THE ORIENT
Fragrance based on the charming old world format of the Orient where the base is heavy on woody, sweet and sensual notes such as sandal, amber and vanilla, is in. Perfumers are using oud, one of the most expensive woods in the world. This has been has been used to make high quality incense for centuries and is described by the Chinese as a sweet, deep but balanced fragrance. This and other old woody structures used in perfume making are gaining popularity the world over.

UNISEX RULES
The traditional idea of wearing scents is changing. People are veering towards the unisex style of fragrances. Quite naturally so and I am very glad to see this trend. A lot of young women do not like traditional 'feminine' scents and they veer towards the unisex style of fragrances. By nature, these fragrances tend to be build around citrus and aqua accords and are refreshing and energising. Given that we are based in the tropics these fragrances are a great fit.

Brands are adapting to the blurring gender divide. Lots of niche perfumeries no longer classify fragrances by gender. For example, Le Labo, Code Deco's Happy Blu and Kokomo fit the bracket.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SCENT
Right fragrance is a combination of multiple things. What will set people apart from each other amidst the excessively materialistic culture is sophistication which comes with experience. Pay attention, feel what works for you. A lot depends on your personality and how well can you listen to your body. Here, seasonality comes into play. Unisex and sporty fragrances like the citruses and mints work well for busy morning energy. The work look should be complimented with a subtle, understated, close to skin scent. The fragrance shouldn't be a distraction. It should be chic, modern and simple. The night look can embrace sensual heavier fragrances that make a statement about your personal self and not your public image. Warmer, layered, thicker notes work well for winter and florals are refreshing during the summer.

Code Deco perfumes available at MoonRiver, D-16, Defence Colony, Delhi (41617103); and at Le Mill, Warden Road, Mumbai (23684461). Prices range between Rs 7500-Rs10,000 for the 50 ml bottle.

As told to Srishti Jha