Which places lend Bengaluru its unique character? Lalbagh, Cubbon Park, Commercial Street and Koshy’s were some of the common responses we received. Though not planned to be a city, but a small town, Bengaluru has grown to include pubs, music venues, and theatre spaces making it truly multicultural. But do areas like MG Road, Brigade Road, Commercial Street and Residency Road define the city? The answer is an obvious and resounding no!
Ask any true-blue Bengalurean and they will tell you how the city’s soul lies in its bylanes that have still retained their old-world charm. So if you choose not to go to the latest restaurant and instead take a walk to explore into the interiors of the city, you will discover a whole new dimension to it.
Meera Iyer, co-convenor of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), Bengaluru, says the city is accepting of other cultures, but she agrees that for those who have been born and raised in the city, the unique characteristics of its neighbourhoods are what make Bengaluru, truly Bengaluru. “Places like Basavangudi and Bangalore Cantonment still retain the old-world charm. I remember as a child, we used to cycle down the service road next to Nanda Road, and the other roads in the vicinity.” As for parks, though Cubbon Park is spoken about often enough, Meera says as children, neighbourhood parks were special.
“They were like our second homes. But these days, they are open only in the mornings and during certain times in the evening.”
Multi-cuisine restaurants aside, the eateries that make Bengaluru truly unique are: “All the Darshinis, idli-vada joints, and the bonda guy.” Even though the city has two palaces, several forts, and countless temples, Meera contends: “Bangalore, in my opinion, isn’t really a city of monuments. Residential areas give the city its character, even when it comes to heritage. Old and iconic buildings define its heritage. Cash Pharmacy, for example, holds a special place in people’s hearts.”
Suresh Moona, who founded the NGO Aarambh, (An Association for Reviving Awareness of Bangalore Heritage), is well-known for dedicating his life to researching and making accessible to everyone the history of the city. He says many areas have retained their old structures. “Cantonment still has old buildings and some monkey top roofs. Traditional festivals are still celebrated in Gandhi Bazaar. In Malleswaram, even though the old market has gone, the old-world charm of Margosa and Sampige Road still remain. Octogenarians still live in Malleswaram. Avenue Road is older than Commercial Street.”
Those coming from outside the city to work here, says Suresh, aren’t exposed to the interiors of the city, even though there are heritage walks that attempt to do this. “I don’t blame them for it. It is the older generation that isn’t doing enough. No proper analytical or systemic study has been done on the city. I have travelled to every nook and corner of the city. Most don’t know of the micro-level of Bengaluru. I am a common man’s historian. Auto drivers and watchmen read my articles. I make my work accessible to all.”
