Bajirao Mastani has brought Maratha aesthetic into the forefront. Priyanka Chopra’s nath and half moon bindi and Ranveer Singh’s Peshwa pagdi and earrings seem to be the current style focus. For a layman, Paithani saris, Peshwa pagdis and Kolhapuri chappals are the most identifiable elements of the state’s cultural insignia.
The nath or the nose ring is a super sexy piece of jewellery and rivals any other jewel when it comes to oozing sex appeal. And who can resist the charm of the classic and festive nauvari and the moon-shaped bindi? We spoke to designers, who’ve worked on Maharashtrian-inspired collections in the past and revived forgotten weaves.
Designer Nachiket Barve, who has created the costumes for Marathi film, Katyar Kaljat Ghusali, says, “The culture and traditional costume from Maharashtra includes rich Paithani saris from Yeola, pagdis from the Peshwa dynasty and Pune style Puneri Pagdisas as well as brocades that form a part of wedding attire.
The nath or nose ring, the Bikhbali or the single earring worn by men are also interesting elements. There are many types of jewellery settings that are also specific to the state. The Kolhapuri chappals are also a stand out identifiable accessory.”
The modern Marathi twist
Barve adds, “The cultural identity of Maharashtra is a melting pot today with tradition and cosmopolitan influences going hand in hand. It is interesting to see the Paithani worn with a contemporary styling in terms of blouse as well as colours and motifs. However, the hallmark of Maharashtrian style is classicism, simplicity and elegance and I would wholeheartedly recommend these than trying to over style and clutter the look.”
Designer Shruti Sancheti says, “Marathi costumes can be worn with a contemporary twist by using the humble khand fabric, which is a poor man’s fabric in smart trousers, jackets, etc. Nagpuri checks are versatile and have an international appeal. Maratha motifs of peacocks, the borders and vibrant colour palette can be used to add a touch of culture to any contemporary outfit.”
Nachiket shares the key accessories details. He says, “It would be caricature-ish to use the hallmarks like the nath as a brooch so something entirely gimmicky and out of context. I would be much more interested in taking a strong element, say a piece of jewellery that’s typical to the region and it be styled interestingly with a contemporary outfit. It would be exciting to take these strong visual cues and craft something more contemporary with them.”
The glorious Paithani
Shruti adds, “Paithani is a glorious weave depicting peacocks, parrots, and other auspicious symbols woven with silk and pure zari, imparting a regal look and is the most sought after and well known component of Maratha costumes and is woven in northern parts of Maharashtra especially Yeola. Besides this, Vidarbha which is the absolute centre of India has many humble but intricate weaves like totapuri, ruiphool, rasta, narli etc, which do not have silver or gold threads but are more apt for regular wear.”
Shruti has also worked a lot with Nagpuri checks and Khand fabric. “Also, I have used a lot of traditional woven motifs of Paithani as embroidery and converted them into border. The peacock and nose ring have been converted into embroidered tassels.”
Designer Swapnil Shinde says, “The most iconic Maharashtrian costume trait is the nine yard draped sari known as the nauvari followed closely by the moon-shaped bindi and the nose ring, these are very traditional thus making them very on spot Maharashtrian. The best way to do a Maharashtrian twist is by using one element whether it’s the bindi or the draped pants or a fabric like the Paithani and making it the main element.”
Revival of forgotten weaves
Designer Vaishali S has revived Khand weave in Maharashtra. “I have extensively worked on this weave as I felt that it has lot of potential and has been underrated as blouse fabric. So I have dedicated two entire collections to this and successfully experimented with Western and modern silhouettes.”
History of culture and valour
Designer Shruti Sancheti, who’s worked on Maratha-inspired collection in the past, says, “Marathas have a glorious history of culture, valour and uniqueness. The Marathi costumes from time immemorial have been inspired by the two conflicting cultures of North and South India because of its geographical location of being the centre of India.”
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