Very often the impact of globalisation on fragile communities can be stark and poignant. A process of flattening out of local sensibilities and cultural nuances is set in motion. Few areas of impact can be as telling as food. In food, culture and agricultures blends, reflecting the uniqueness of its people. More so when we talk about remote communities that have had farming practices perfected over millennia, adapting to their special landscape and environment. As the market economy rolls on, this familiar mooring gradually gets dislodged. The people of the Pamir inhabiting the icy landscape divided between Afghanistan and Tajikistan are no exception. Two young researchers have brought this into sharp focus through their recent book, With Our Own Hands . Frederik van Oudenhoven and Jamila Haider have documented the traditional food of the Pamir region and through it take us through its rich culture and enduring farming traditions.
About a hundred Pamiri dishes are described in detail in the book, with names of crops, pulses, grains, fruits and vegetables. The calendar, festivities and occasions associated with the dishes and the cooking of the same are discussed in detail.
Commonly known as the roof of the world, people inhabiting the Pamirs speak many languages; Persian serves as the lingua franca. On the Afghan side, it is written in the Arabic script and on the Tajik side the Cyrillic script, reminding us of its Soviet era legacy. The book is trilingual, published in English, Persian and Tajik.
The authors observe that grains and pulses are sown and harvested together. Not only is this practice ecologically robust, but also the best tasting hazorza (mixed flour) come from such mixed crop farms like the ones in the upper Ghund Valley.
While describing food from wheat, the book tells us that bread making is a revered activity in Pamiri culture, and the kitsor , the traditional oven, is a sacred spot in the house. Bread is made from wheat, barley, rye, millets and pea flour. You have rich breads as well as ones with fillings like animal fat and flax seeds. You have the Walnut filled Nawruzi bread made especially for the New Year. Despite the pre-eminence of Islam, being the religion of the region, Zoroastrian traditions like the Nawruz is followed, marking the holy beginning of the cultivation season.
Talking about soups and porridges, the volume describes the preparation of the famous Osh or noodles soup. The book points out that for all the variety cited, it is still food meant for austere living and a life of hardship. The rare abundance and even the luxury of meat are reserved for special occasions, or when guests come. A culinary tradition rather circumscribed by the need to live within ecological means.
Fruits form an integral part of the food. Apples and plums, cherries and berries are all there. Apricot and wild rhubarb find their way into cooking. Dried Mulberry flour or Pikht is a unique ingredient that plays an important role, for sustenance in times of scarcity and for making Mulberry halva at feasting time! The book documents the Pamiri wedding or Sur along with songs and poetry of the region. The life of the hardy Pamiri Kyrgyz people is also well presented through pictures and words.
With 688 pages and 288 photographs, the book has quite a few striking images from three award winning photographers, Judith Quax, Theodore Kaye and Matthieu Paley, and is published by the Netherlands based LM Publishers.
The volume can adorn any book lover’s shelf or an ethnographer’s library, or can kindle a school boy’s interest in geography.
With Our Own Hands; Frederik van Oudenhoven and Jamila Haider, LM Publishers, € 54.50.
