Breathtaking scenery, beaches and forests - and that's just the beginning

I know many people who have visited Fuzhou, capital of Fujian province, but not one of them had gone there with the sole purpose of sightseeing.

For a long time, Fuzhou has generally been a mere afterthought for tourists heading for the cities of Quanzhou, 180 kilometers to the southwest, or Xiamen, another 200 km or so down the road. The modus operandi seems to be that if you have a day or so up your sleeve you jump on the train for the two-or three-hour trip to Fuzhou, but if there is no time, the city disappears from your itinerary.

Which means Fuzhou is not exactly teeming with tourists, and indeed few people even seem to know it is the provincial capital, and that seems a trifle unfair, because those who take the trouble to visit it almost invariably have good things to say about it and end up going back there. If you are anything like me, after spending a few days there you will leave only very reluctantly.

Rarely have I heard a bad word said about Xiamen, but for my money Fuzhou trumps it with its slower pace, strong ancient cultural feel and its numerous parks, which are particularly attractive when flowers are in bloom.

Add to that its breathtaking scenery, beaches, forests, history and delicious food and it is small wonder that it has been home to many well-known people who have recorded their feelings for the place in books, poems and other pieces of writing. Among them are the poets Lu You and Xin Qiji and the Zhu Xi and Cai Xiang, all of whom lived during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) and great writers such as Zeng Gong of the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127).

If all of that is not enough, Fuzhou can boast hot springs, many of which can be enjoyed in situ in the comfort of many of the city's many hotels.

If you decide to spend two or three days in Fuzhou, you might get your stay off to a gentle start by visiting the city's European-style hot spring park composed of areas with themes such as bamboo, rare trees, tropical plants and fountains. You can enjoy this a leisurely pace during the morning. Admission is free.

The next stop could be Sanfang Qixiang, an ancient compound through which run three main streets and seven small alleys. Fuzhou dates back more than 2,200 years, and Sanfang Qixiang is unrivalled as a place for gaining an appreciation of its history and culture.

Many of the city's famous people lived in Sanfang Qixiang and its surroundings. These figures include Lin Zexu, a national hero in the First Opium War, Shen Baozhen, a diplomat and national hero during the Qing Dynasty (1368-1911), and the educator Yan Fu and the writer Bing Xin in modern times.

If you are a history and culture buff there can be no better way of lapping up such things by staying in an ancient building that has been turned into a small hotel and spending time visiting the homes of these famous people one by one.

Sanfang Qixiang was built during the Jin Dynasty (AD 266-420), improvements were made during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) and the finishing touches were given during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911 AD) dynasties. This is a living fossil of China's ancient community system and is regarded as an architectural museum representing the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Most of the houses are extremely well-persevered, looking much like they would have when they were first built, and when you enter the main street, ancient carved beams and other wooden structures may make you feel that you have traveled back to ancient times.

In Sanfang Qixiang you can also acquaint yourself with the cultural heritage of Fujian, for example seeing how festival lanterns, which date back to the Tang Dynasty, are made. Old tables that used to be almost a permanent fixture outside medicine stores are still to be seen on the roadside. In one place there is a 30-meter-long tree trunk, the remnants of the building materials of an ancient shipyard. These days it serves as a bench, a place where you can rest your weary legs after a stretch of sightseeing.

Not far from Sanfang Qixiang is a small river called Antai. The ancient buildings along its banks have been renovated and are now elegant restaurants. With delicious food, the river flowing gently by and the branches of willow trees dancing in the wind, it can serve as the perfect backdrop for a romantic evening.

In downtown Fuzhou are two old fish ball and beef ball restaurants that date back more than a hundred years. The surface of yonghe fish balls is made of eel and shark, and the inside consists of meat or some other stuffing. They taste great and have a silky texture. The good thing, too, is that if you try them and like them enough, you can take home gift packs for relatives and friends.

Another daytime activity could simply be a long stroll enjoying the city's countless banyan trees. The Mandarin for banyan tree is rong shu, which lends itself to the city's nickname, rong, reflecting the tree's ubiquity in Fuzhou. Take a close look at many a banyan tree, and you could swear you are looking at an old man stroking his long beard as he tells old tales.

West Lake, National Forest Park, Binjiang Park and Zhenhai Tower are also well worth seeing, and with most, admission is free.

If art is your thing, No 1 Shaoyuan, in the downtown area, is the place to go. It resembles the 798 Art Zone in Beijing, consisting of abandoned factories that have been turned into studios and ateliers. If this is the last stop on your visit, there is no better place to sip a coffee and ruminate on the days you have just enjoyed in Fuzhou

Contact the writer at hena@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily USA 10/26/2015 page10)