Basil at its peak brings to mind a bright pesto and that, in turn, suggests summer spaghetti.
With only five ingredients, pesto is simple, but as is the case in many easy dishes, you should use the best ingredients you can get your hands on. Start with perfect basil leaves, fresh pine nuts, and Parmesan grated from a block by hand (or by a reliable cheese department). That olive oil you’ve been saving for a special occasion should be showcased here. This recipe makes enough for one pound of pasta, but double or triple this batch, omitting the Parmesan, to tuck into zipper bags, squeezing out as much air as possible (you can also use ice cube trays), and freeze. Defrost and whisk well, add the Parmesan, and drizzle over eggs, or add a dollop to soup for a flavor boost.
If you’ve noticed that pesto often turns a disappointing olive green, try this little trick: Blanch the leaves in boiling water for a few seconds, then quickly refresh them in an ice water bath. The boiling water kills the browning enzymes in the leaves so your pesto will stay bright.
When cooking pasta, use abundant water and keep it at a rolling boil. No oil is necessary, since the starch in the pasta helps the sauce stick to it. Salt the water generously (some Italian cooks say it should be as saline as sea water). Use about 1 tablespoon per quart of water. Test for doneness slightly before the recommended cooking time on the package. Al dente, the term Italians use for pasta that is ready, means it is done but slightly chewy in the center when you bite a strand. Before draining, dip a measuring cup into the cooking water to remove some.
Dress the pasta with pesto and a little cooking water, then add ripe cherry tomatoes, and creamy ricotta. Your meal is economical, beautiful, and
seasonal.
Advertisement